Having used QDs and camlocks, I now have a preference for camlocks. They're easier to operate when scorching hot, and don't stick from sticky wort getting into the workings like QDs do. At the moment though I am still using QDs on my pump as can't really justify replacing them. On the inlet of my pump I have a 90 degree elbow on the 1/2" bsp thread, into which I have a female QD fitting with a 1/2" male BSP thread screwed in to the elbow (plenty of plumbers PTFE on all threads, else you get leaks). On the outlet I have a male QD fitting with a female 1/2" BSP thread that screws onto the pump thread (again, plenty of plumbers PTFE to prevent leaks). This way I can remove the pump easily for cleaning, and take the hose off too.
I use camlock fittings at the kettle return end, hence I know I prefer them. Posted pics of my setup a few times, but here's another, you can see the pump bottom left, with the fittings on it. Because of the small size of the pump, and the way I have the fittings, I don't have to use a bracket or anything. The fittings hold it all in place.
The male camlock you can see with nothing on it is my whirlpool fitting, which doesn't do much for whirlpooling really, but DOES seriously help with cooling the wort, and is handy to connect up to so I can run the pump during the last 10/15 minutes of the boil to sanitise the tap, pump and hose ready for transfer to the FV after cooling. It's connected to another tap, so is just closed the rest of the time.
I will mention though, if you want clearer wort, forget lifting the bag from the wort. The minute you do all the effects from the pump go down the drain. You have to pretend you're using a mash tun if you want the clearer wort, and drain the kettle BEFORE you lift the bag, into a clean FV or some other clean food safe container. Then sparge if you are going to, re-circulate again to get your sparge clear (and make up for the volume you are going to lose from not squeezing the bag...) and drain that into the same container. Then clean out the bottom of the kettle (if there is any flour on the bottom of it, which if your bag is fairly course there will be), before putting the wort back in for the boil. Which basically mimics multi vessel brewing with a single vessel, and for many would negate the point of BIAB. BUT it does give you clear wort into the boil... Again, posted this before, but as it's on topic, this is a pic of wort from doing exactly what I just described:-
It made absolutely no difference to the beer though to be honest, and you get the same quantity of trub pretty much. Now I just lift and squeeze, and re-circulate to allow me to use RIMS to control mash temp, and help with the mash. That one in the pic for example, I dry hopped with pellets which left the beer cloudy because I can't cold crash.... So a pointless exercise. lol My last brew I didn't even bother trying to filter out the break, I put the entire contents of the kettle into the FV, having contained the hops in a grain mashing bag for the boil. Samples of the beer so far have been delicious, and there was very little trub as I have a new bag that doesn't allow as much flour to escape.
Hope this helps.
I'll let you know how I get on.
![BREWING THERMOMETER STICKERS ACCURATELY MONITOR FERMENTING BEER & WINE LIQUID TEMPERATURES 5PCS HOME BREW SPIRITS WINE LCD ADHESIVE [US]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/311DDjo2X3L._SL500_.jpg)
