AGs 1-3

[paraffin]

OK, so here's my starting off down the slippery slope since early January, with a couple of questions. All done BIAB,with a Brupaks 32l stovetop boiler

AG1 - TT Landlord AG kit from BrewUK

Went ok, mash needed warming up a couple of times in the 60 mins, did it entirely to instructions. No chilling equipment so cooled overnight in the sink. Guessing a bit at volumes, but went with the kit as was, ended up with about 19l which I topped up to about 21l with the right OG. Fermented ok, been in the barrel about 3 weeks now.
Verdict: tastes pretty good (and way better than any kit I've ever done) - much maltier than TTL though, any obvious reason why? No TTL fruitiness though, guess possibly due to Nottingham yeast.

AG2: - a Way to Amarillo ([link removed to brewuk amarillo recipe])

Again, mash went ok, did better on volumes, ended up at 21l without a post boil top up. The flameout hops went in at 100degrees rather than waiting to fall to 80. Did it on a Sunday, wouldn't have time on a working Monday to decant, so drained the hot wort into the FV to cool overnight and pitched in the morning. After a couple of days in the barrel it tastes absolutely gorgeous, though a bit of a tastebud killer (and unfortunately leaking from the tap, had to tip it up, unscrew and reseal)

AG3: an Oakham Citra style ([link removed to thehomebrewforum Dave1970 recipe])

Except I reduced the MO a bit, decided to use Magnum for the 60 min bittering hops (get enough of the cat wee smell elsewhere in the house). Waited to drop to 80deg before the flameout hops but decided to extend the boil a bit while forgetting the bittering hops would be in there a bit longer. Chilled outside overnight, 23l exactly at the right OG in the FV and it smells lovely.

So for my questions/reassurance

1. For 23l BIAG in a 32l pot I'm just using the normal recipes - have I missed anything? I looked at both the BIAB spreadsheet and Brewmate and dialling in a desired 23l brew just specifies too much startup water. So I kinda assume the dunk sparge topups will do for volume, and I don't need to amend the grain or hops if I'm using 20-odd litresin the boiler.
2. I was a bit alarmed in Brewmate, if I tick the No Chill box (which I'm kind of doing, not in a jerrycan but as a slow cool) I get alarmingly high IBUs. Is that likely? I have left the flameout hops in overnight as well for #2 and #3. But on the other hand the #2 tastes pretty good.
3. And that decant of hot wort straight into FV - there was a lot of trub, but what's the risk? Slower cooling and slower to clear?

Am really enjoying this, impossible not to try tweaking through! Have to have a bit of a break to drink this stuff before the next one...

Cheers

 

[pittsy]

Hi , the harsh taste (if from hops) will reduce after a few weeks in the bottle (or a little more if heavy hopped) I tend to lose around 1L of water per kg of grain and when brewing 23l i have to boil around 30L so i end up using around 36L in total , btw don't squeeze the grain bag when removing bag from pot as it can release tannins from the grain which can give odd sharp/sour/bitter taste .

 

[bunkerbrewer]

1. For 23l BIAG in a 32l pot I'm just using the normal recipes - have I missed anything? I looked at both the BIAB spreadsheet and Brewmate and dialling in a desired 23l brew just specifies too much startup water. So I kinda assume the dunk sparge topups will do for volume, and I don't need to amend the grain or hops if I'm using 20-odd litres in the boiler.

Yes, that'll work. I think 32L is big enough not to worry about maxi-BIAB calculations. Just keep really good records of your brews (gravities, volumes etc at each stage) and you'll be able to dial in your recipes pretty quickly. Nothing wrong with making a stronger wort in your pot and diluting post-boil.

You'll find a load of stuff on the internet about boil volumes and hop utilisation - my advice is ignore it, it's often irrelevant, confusing or wrong :)

2. I was a bit alarmed in Brewmate, if I tick the No Chill box (which I'm kind of doing, not in a jerrycan but as a slow cool) I get alarmingly high IBUs. Is that likely? I have left the flameout hops in overnight as well for #2 and #3. But on the other hand the #2 tastes pretty good.

Yes, I ended up with a couple of beers which were too bitter (for my tastes anyway). From my third BIAB I started using a no-chill cube, so the early hops aren't left in the wort as it cools. Later I also started using a hop spider (a suspended hop sock), so I can pull out my early addition hops, and add my 30-minute post boil aroma hops.

I do my BIAB in a 40L boiler, but the principle is the same.

3. And that decant of hot wort straight into FV - there was a lot of trub, but what's the risk? Slower cooling and slower to clear?

It'll be slower to clear, but don't worry about it too much :) If you've got a brew fridge, you can crash cool for the last 2 days in the FV @ 5°C which helps a lot with clarity.

 

[mmaguy41]

Ive just bought a couple of cubes off ebay for about 15 quid for the 2 with postage, so it might be worth trying that if you have room for storing them. Sounds like you are working out your volumes well and making some good beer congrats