Ag or BIAB?

[robster62]

Hi all
I've just ordered a Robobrew from Kingkegtap which is due for arrival in the middle of March. My question is as I don't have the funds for a heater or a decent hob for a stock pot (just an ordinary electric cooker) for sparge water, should I start my AG journey using a full boil biab system?
Any thoughts or suggestions welcome.

 

[Sadfield]

Or sparge cooler. Can be done with cold water, although water from your hot tap would work. Just means you'll be trying to reach the boil from a lower temperature.

http://braukaiser.com/blog/blog/2009/05/12/cold-water-sparging/

 

[Brew Dad]

+1 to what @Sadfield says. I heat my sparge water, but only to speed things along with getting to boil temperature, and because I already have the gear to do so. You'll be fine with cold or room temperature water if that's what you choose.

 

[robster62]

I assume I would have to do a mash out first

 

[Brew Dad]

I assume I would have to do a mash out first

Certainly no harm in that, and it's very simple with the Robobrew. Here's what I do: One hour mash at appropriate temp. Then set RB temp to 75 degrees for mash out, 15 mins or so. When it hits 75 degrees, raise malt pipe. Then I set the temp to boil, and begin sparge. With a bit of luck, it is nearing boil by the time the sparge is done.

 

[-Bezza-]

You could heat the sparge water in the Robobrew first, transfer to a container (FV perhaps) and do your best to keep it warm. Then commence the mash in the Robobrew as normal. Might be a bit trial-and-error to figure out how hot to get the sparge water initially, allowing for the subsequent cooling.

 

[Sadfield]

Ordinary, I'd say mashing out is unnecessary at homebrew level, as the time it takes to hit the boil is so short. However, it will be a good idea if you are adding cold sparge water, as you'll be a few degrees nearer the boil after sparging.

 

[Brew Dad]

You could heat the sparge water in the Robobrew first, transfer to a container (FV perhaps) and do your best to keep it warm. Then commence the mash in the Robobrew as normal. Might be a bit trial-and-error to figure out how hot to get the sparge water initially, allowing for the subsequent cooling.

Excellent idea.

 

[robster62]

Thanks for all the suggestions I now need to decide what recipe to use for my first brew

 

[foxbat]

Ordinary, I'd say mashing out is unnecessary at homebrew level, as the time it takes to hit the boil is so short. However, it will be a good idea if you are adding cold sparge water, as you'll be a few degrees nearer the boil after sparging.

What purpose does mashing out serve in a system where lautering is not done and the mash profile is locked in by lifting out the grain? It seems to be a process step required only by the 3 vessel method.

 

[F00b4r]

You could heat the sparge water in the Robobrew first, transfer to a container (FV perhaps) and do your best to keep it warm. Then commence the mash in the Robobrew as normal. Might be a bit trial-and-error to figure out how hot to get the sparge water initially, allowing for the subsequent cooling.

It also allows you to treat all your water in one go before drawing off the sparge water. I tend to do this the night before, draw off the non strike water into a big pot and then have my BM set to have the mash water heated ready for mash in when I wake, it makes for a quicker brew day and you can be wrapped up quite early.

 

[Sadfield]

What purpose does mashing out serve in a system where lautering is not done and the mash profile is locked in by lifting out the grain? It seems to be a process step required only by the 3 vessel method.

Removing the grain doesn't lock in the mash profile. The wort still contains active enzymes, sugars and starches.

 

[foxbat]

Removing the grain doesn't lock in the mash profile. The wort still contains active enzymes, sugars and starches.

So the most effective use of the brewer's time is to lift the bag/malt pipe and get the heat on for the boil right away.

 

[Sadfield]

So the most effective use of the brewer's time is to lift the bag/malt pipe and get the heat on for the boil right away.

Yes, if they don't want to sparge. One for the OP to choose, time vs efficiency.

What is your opinion on the OP's choice?

 

[Zephyr259]

I've read that the higher temp of mash out means the wort drains easier since it's that little bit thinner, but I'm not sure that 5 - 10 c will make all that much practical difference to viscosity.

 

[robster62]

Yes, if they don't want to sparge. One for the OP to choose, time vs efficiency.

What is your opinion on the OP's choice?

Is efficiency that important in a first brew? Do I not need to get the basics right first then worry about the detail?

 

[Sadfield]

No, efficiency isn't important, it's a financial consideration that has little to do with quality. However it is the question you are asking. Full volume mash (Saves Time) Vs Mash and sparge (More Efficient).

 

[Harbey]

Do you have a combi boiler for your heating/hot water? If so, just sparge straight from the hot water tap. You can do the same for your mash water too - saves time.

 

[AdeDunn]

Just to muddy the waters further, you know you can get efficiency well over 70% even without sparging just by getting your water chemistry, process etc down right? I don't sparge any more, but thanks to recirculation etc hit 80% at times even, depending on the recipe.

I mash out because I vorlauf, using my recirculation pump etc. So yeah, same as an all in one will....

 

[Covrich]

I full volume Mash no sparge or recirculate and get around 72-75% everytime, nice easy and consistent