AG 2 recipe ideas help please

The Homebrew Forum

Help Support The Homebrew Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Jul 11, 2013
Messages
2,622
Reaction score
834
Location
Newcastle
Hello all,
Been buzzing since my step into the Dark Side with my first AG brew.
Don't know if I was happy with using the hops I used til I can taste it.
I actually like a sweet ale or a bitter with a sweeter taste.
I'm kinda liking the use of Honey and the idea of Chocolate.
What about toffee? Going to look into it lol.
If anyone has any recipes for either a sweet ale or a combination of toffee honey chocolate etc and I will fire it into brew mate and see what it comes up with.
ATB
Bri
 
dennisking said:
If you caramelise a couple of litres of first runnings it will a toffee flavour.

Dennis,
Mmmmmmmmm! Sounds lovely that and then add it Striaght to the fv afterwards, b4 pitching the yeast?
Suppose the exact amount will be trial and error?
Cheers buddy :cheers:
ATB
Bri
 
Take around 2 litres and boil to reduce until it becomes sticky, like treacle. Then add back to the main boiling wort.
 
dennisking said:
Take around 2 litres and boil to reduce until it becomes sticky, like treacle. Then add back to the main boiling wort.

Dennis
Thx so much for that.
Gonna give that a try, on a ale or bitter as I've seen some recipes for a Porter.
Jus gotta decide what recipe now :lol:
Thx
Bri
 
My delivery is at home waiting for me when I get back...
A milk Choc Stout is on the cards.
Just gotta get my AG1 bottled, which is a pity as I was hoping to of had my co2 bottle ready to try the cornie's out.
But it is only Friday just time yet.
ATB
Bri
 
never rush to bottle or keg your beers, better off a week longer in a bucket to clean before you do that... :thumb:
 
piddledribble said:
never rush to bottle or keg your beers, better off a week longer in a bucket to clean before you do that... :thumb:

Got no choice I'm 210 mile away :D
2 weeks in the bucket ain't gonna harm it, so a week longer will do thx pal.
Paid £20 for 4 drinks yesterday with friends..broke my heart :lol:
ATB
Bri
 
Manxnorton said:
piddledribble said:
Got no choice I'm 210 mile away :D

It's nice to run across a Brit who still uses the old English measurement system. I can easily go back and forth between English and metric measurements; however, all-grain recipe formulation is much easier to do when using English measurements. In my humble opinion, points per pound per gallon is superior to points per kilogram per liter because it is a non-concentrated brew house metric. For example, my average brew house extraction rate is around 30 points per pound per U.S. Gallon (25 points per pound per Imperial Gallon or an average efficiency of approximately 83%), which means that I can produce one U.S. gallon of 1.030 wort using one pound of grain. All I have to do to hit a desired original gravity (O.G.) is to divide the fractional component of the target gravity by 0.030 and multiply the result by the number of gallons that I wish to brew to know how many pounds of grain I need to use in my grist. I can easily perform this calculation in my head.

For example, we want to brew 5 US gallons of beer with an O.G. of 1.045 with an extraction rate of 30 points per pound per U.S. gallon.

pounds_of_grist = 0.045 / 0.030 x 5 = 7.5 (In practice, I divide 45 by 30 and multiply the result by the number of gallons of wort)

Now, lets look at what we have to do when using the metric system. My extraction rate in points per kilogram per liter is 30 x 8.35 ~= 251 points per kilogram per liter, which to me is not very intuitive (the scaling value 8.35 takes into account that there are approximately 2.20462 lbs in a kilogram and 3.78541 liters in a U.S. gallon).

Converting the example above to the metric system yields a volume of 19L

kilograms_of_grist = 0.045 x 19 / 0.251 = 3.4 kilograms

With points per pound per gallon, one only needs to calculate the amount of grain that ones need to make one gallon of wort and multiply that value by the number of gallons that one wishes to brew. With points per kilogram, one has to calculate the total number of gravity points in the batch with respect to a liter and then divide the result by one's brew house extraction rate in points per kilogram per liter. In my humble opinion, working with points per pound per gallon is a more natural way to brew.

Now, I know that more than one amateur brewer on this forum is more than likely asking the question, "How does one go about calculating one's average brew house extraction rate?" It's quite simple.

points_per_pound_per_gallon = (original_gravity - 1.0) x 1,000 x volume_in_gallons / pounds_of_grist

points_per_kilogram_per_liter = (original_gravity - 1.0) x 1,000 x volume_in_liters / kilograms_of_grist


We brewed a 5 Imperial gallon batch of wort with an O.G. of 1.051 batch using 11 pounds of grist

points_per_pound_per_gallon = (1.051 - 1.0) x 1,000 x 5 / 11 ~= 23 points per pound

Converting to the metric system (using 23 liters as a rough equivalent of 5 Imperial gallons)

points_per_kilogram_per_liter = (1.051 - 1.0) x 1,000 x 23 / 5 ~= 235 points per kilogram

Now, all we need to do is to perform this calculation for a several batches and average the results. Points per pound and points per kilogram are much more usable brew house metrics than extraction efficiencies because maltsters quote the average extract yield in points per pound or pounds per kilogram on their malt analysis sheets.

Let's look at a hypothetical malt analysis sheet for a bag of British Pale Ale malt

Typical British Malt Analysis -- Pale Ale

Variable Typical Value
Color 2-3.5 °L (4-6.5 °EBC)
Moisture Content (MC) 2.8-3.3%
Hot Water Extract (HWE) 303-315 L°/kg 7M
Cold Water Extract (CWE) 17-20.5%
Total Nitrogen (TN) 1.4-1.7%
Soluble Nitrogen Ratio (SNR) 36-45.5%
Diastatic Power (DP) 40-65 °Lintner (124-212 °WK)
Screenings <2.2 mm 0.45%
Friability 90-100%


The key metric value above is HWE. The ratio "L°/kg" denotes points per liter per kilogram, which is another way of saying points per kilogram per liter. The reason why knowing this value is important is that without it any calculated efficiency percentage is little more than fiction.

Using the extraction rate of 235 points per kilogram above

HWE_listed_on_the_bag = 303 points per kilogram per liter

235 / 303 = 77.5% actual efficiency


HWE_listed_on_the_bag = 315 points per kilogram per liter

235 / 315 = 74.6% actual efficiency

The problem with using brewing software to calculate efficiency percentages is that the maximum amount of extract that can be produced by a pound of grain is usually set at around 301 points per kilogram per liter, which lures amateur brewers into believing that their brew houses are more efficient than they actually are when using bags of base malt with higher extract potentials. Conversely, a bag of base malt that is incapable of producing 301 points per kilogram per liter on a good day will make amateur brewers believe that they have inefficient brew houses.

By the way, honey will not make your beer sweeter. It will make it drier. As Dennis mentioned, you need to add non-fermentable sugars to your wort.
 
saccharomyces said:
Manxnorton said:
piddledribble said:
Got no choice I'm 210 mile away :D

It's nice to run across a Brit who still uses the old English measurement system. I can easily go back and forth between English and metric measurements; however, all-grain recipe formulation is much easier to do when using English measurements. In my humble opinion, points per pound per gallon is superior to points per kilogram because it is a non-concentrated brew house metric. For example, my average brew house extraction rate is around 30 points per pound per U.S. Gallon (25 points per pound per Imperial Gallon or an average efficiency of approximately 83%), which means that I can produce one U.S. gallon of 1.030 wort using one pound of grain. All I have to do to hit a desired original gravity (O.G.) is to divide the fractional component of the target gravity by 0.030 and multiply the result by the number of gallons that I wish to brew to know how many pounds of grain I need to use in my grist. I can easily perform this calculation in my head.

For example, we want to brew a 5 US gallon of beer with an O.G. of 1.045 with an extraction rate of 30 points per pound per U.S. gallon.

pounds_of_grist = 0.045 / 0.030 x 5 = 7.5 (In practice, I divide 45 by 30 and multiply the result by the number of gallons of wort)

Now, lets look at what we have to do when using using the metric system. My extraction rate in points per kilogram per liter is 30 x 8.35 ~= 251 points per kilogram per liter, which to me is not very intuitive (the scaling value 8.35 takes into account that there are approximately 2.20462 lbs in a kilogram and 3.78541 liters in a U.S. gallon).

Converting the example above to the metric yields a volume of 19L

kilograms_of_grist = 0.045 x 19 / 0.251 = 3.4 kilograms

With points per pound per gallon, one only needs to calculate the amount of grain that one need to make one gallon of wort and multiply that value by the number of gallons that one wishes to brew. With points per kilogram, one has to calculate the total number of gravity points in the batch with respect to a liter and then divide the result by one's brew house extraction rate in points per kilogram per liter. In my humble opinion, working with points per pound per gallon is a more natural way to brew.

Now, I know that more than one amateur brewer on this forum is more than likely asking the question, "How does one go about calculating one's average brew house extraction rate?" It's quite simple.

points_per_pound_per_gallon = (original_gravity - 1.0) x 1,000 x volume_on_gallons / pounds_of_grist

points_per_kilogram_per_liter = (original_gravity - 1.0) x 1,000 x volume_in_liters / kilograms_of_grist


We brewed a 5 Imperial gallon batch of wort with an O.G. of 1.051 batch using 11 pound of grist

points_per_pound_per_gallon = (1.051 - 1.0) x 1,000 x 5 / 11 ~= 23 points per pound

Converting to the metric system (using 23 liters as a rough equivalent of 5 Imperial gallons)

points_per_kilogram_per_liter = (1.051 - 1.0) x 1,000 x 23 / 5 ~= 235 points per kilogram

Now, all we need to do is to perform this calculation for a several batches and average the results. Points per pound and points per kilogram are much more usable brew house metrics than extraction efficiencies because maltsters quote the average extract yield in points per pound or pounds per kilogram on their malt analysis sheets.

Let's look at a hypothetical malt analysis sheet for a bag of British Pale Ale malt

Typical British Malt Analysis -- Pale Ale

Variable Typical Value
Color 2-3.5 °L (4-6.5 °EBC)
Moisture Content (MC) 2.8-3.3%
Hot Water Extract (HWE) 303-315 L°/kg 7M
Cold Water Extract (CWE) 17-20.5%
Total Nitrogen (TN) 1.4-1.7%
Soluble Nitrogen Ratio (SNR) 36-45.5%
Diastatic Power (DP) 40-65 °Lintner (124-212 °WK)
Screenings <2.2 mm 0.45%
Friability 90-100%


The key metric value above is HWE. The ratio "L°/kg" denotes points per liter per kilogram, which is another way of saying points per kilogram per liter. The reason why knowing this value is important is that without it any calculated efficiency percentage is little more than fiction.

Using the extraction rate of 235 points per pound above

HWE_listed_on_the_bag = 303 points per kilogram per liter

235 / 303 = 77.5% actual efficiency


HWE_listed_on_the_bag = 315 points per kilogram per liter

235 / 315 = 74.6% actual efficiency

The problem with using brewing software to calculate efficiency percentages is that the maximum amount of extract that can be produced by a pound of grain is usually set at around 301 points per kilogram per liter, which lures amateur brewers into believing that their brew houses are efficient than they actually are when using bags of base malt with higher extract potentials. Conversely, a bag of base malt that is incapable of producing 301 points per kilogram per liter on a good day will make amateur brewers believe that they have inefficient brew houses.

By the way, honey will not make your beer sweeter. It will make it drier. As Dennis mentioned, you need to add non-fermentable sugars to your wort.

Saccha
All I can say is wowwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww!!!
What a write up m8.
It's going to take some time for me to slowly work that little lot out
Cheers buddy
Bri
 
Our natural reaction to anything that involves evaluating mathematical equations is to develop a mental block that prevents learning. However, anyone who is capable of keeping track of readings while brewing can use the information that I outlined above.
 
I have no doubt that is the case. I am not making fun of your obvious talents. Just my inability to assimilate the information
 
saccharomyces said:
Our natural reaction to anything that involves evaluating mathematical equations is to develop a mental block that prevents learning. However, anyone who is capable of keeping track of readings while brewing can use the information that I outlined above.

I have no doubt that somewhere inside my tiny brain I have the ability to work it out.
As far as a mental block it's called "Being Brian"
Now if there's an App that can do it for me without using brain power then I'm all for that, I'm sure that's why clever people make them so guys like me don't have a brain fart!
Your method the more I look at it makes sence.
ATB
Bri
 
I think you need to get yourself a second AG kit and leave it at your lasses!

I paided 10 times the amount my beer costs to make in the pub the other night for 1 pint. Was particulally painfull as it was no where near as nice as my beer!

Milk stout sounds good, keep us posted.
 
Rolfster said:
I think you need to get yourself a second AG kit and leave it at your lasses!

I paided 10 times the amount my beer costs to make in the pub the other night for 1 pint. Was particulally painfull as it was no where near as nice as my beer!

Milk stout sounds good, keep us posted.

Ha ha m8..
It hurts doesn't :lol:
I'm seriously thinking of brining the king keg down, at least I'll not be paying silly prices lol
ATB
Bri
 
Back
Top