Ace electric boilers?

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Cheers, glad it's not just me with the bazooka problem! Definitely gonna try a hop spider next time, seems a fairly easy inexpensive option.

I went with a filter bag initially which worked great so then I upgraded to stainless, which just arrived this morning. Haven't used it yet so not really a recommendation but I got mine from here, much cheaper direct than via ebay or amazon, and out of the box it looks to be good quality.

http://www.banggood.com/100x225MM-S...ellet-Hop-Filter-p-1087547.html?rmmds=myorder

Only thing I'm unsure about is whether 400 micron is the right filter size, I've read lots of differing opinions round and about, 400 seems to be somewhere in the middle.
 
I went with a filter bag initially which worked great so then I upgraded to stainless, which just arrived this morning. Haven't used it yet so not really a recommendation but I got mine from here, much cheaper direct than via ebay or amazon, and out of the box it looks to be good quality.

http://www.banggood.com/100x225MM-S...ellet-Hop-Filter-p-1087547.html?rmmds=myorder

Only thing I'm unsure about is whether 400 micron is the right filter size, I've read lots of differing opinions round and about, 400 seems to be somewhere in the middle.

I have one of those without the hook and has a lid. Its meant to be for dry hopping in a corny. Only problem i found was its full when stuffed with 100g so i have never used it in the boil.
 
I have one of those without the hook and has a lid. Its meant to be for dry hopping in a corny. Only problem i found was its full when stuffed with 100g so i have never used it in the boil.

That thought has struck me, but the filter bag I was using before can take over for bigger hop loads. I only do 15L batches anyway so shouldn't be an issue too often.
 
Hi!
I'm considering a stainless steel grain basket for the ACE, similar to the one used in their micro-brewery.
This is �£96, including shipping, which is too much for my pocket: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/162136128411?rmvSB=true
Any suggestions?

I would try out donchicon's suggestions before you spend any money. For £96 you could get a sh buffalo(around £70 ) and have some left for a larger pot. My next step will be to mash without the bazooka using the false bottom and my pump. Once thats running proerly i will hook up my Inkbird PID to control the temps. Using it on an FV at the moment. Will control temps manually for now.
Reckon i will use the bag for hops.
I am going to boil on my induction hob but if i was using the ace alone i might but the bazooka back on. You could filter the wort through it before boiling to remove lumps that might stick to the bottom. That causes cut outs.
I will report back after my next attempt.
 
Hi!
Thanks, BeerCat,
I don't have £96, and even if I did, it's too expensive. I was hoping for any suggestions about modding a grain basket.
I was considering a batch sparge - I've got a 22 litre boiler that I'll use as a HLT. I was going to use a pump to circulate the wort during the mash to get a good grain bed for filtering, collect the first run-off, add the sparge water, stir up the grain and circulate again to get a decent grain bed again before collecting the second run-off.
 
Finally had some success. Second proper run using the pump today. Yesterday didn't go to plan when the fuse on the pumpo went after 15mins. Not sure if thats cos of a blocked pump but i doubt it. Went out all of a sudden. Once again it wouldnt drain and i couldnt unblock it. Seems to have an air pocket, took forever. Undeterred i had another go today mashing in slowly using 1kg of flaked barley as a base. I didnt stir just put the pump on full and away it went. Not one blockage and crystal clear wort afrer 15 mins. For the sparge i just carefully poured in 10l of water and recirculated it to clear the wort and drained. Very simple and the clearest wort i have ever had by a long shot.
Going to be using my PID the next timei do this as was a pain manually turning the thing on and off. Its do able but very easy to forget.

001 - Copy.jpg
 
Finally had some success. Second proper run using the pump today. Yesterday didn't go to plan when the fuse on the pumpo went after 15mins. Not sure if thats cos of a blocked pump but i doubt it. Went out all of a sudden. Once again it wouldnt drain and i couldnt unblock it. Seems to have an air pocket, took forever. Undeterred i had another go today mashing in slowly using 1kg of flaked barley as a base. I didnt stir just put the pump on full and away it went. Not one blockage and crystal clear wort afrer 15 mins. For the sparge i just carefully poured in 10l of water and recirculated it to clear the wort and drained. Very simple and the clearest wort i have ever had by a long shot.
Going to be using my PID the next timei do this as was a pain manually turning the thing on and off. Its do able but very easy to forget.


Good to hear and nice pic. My first recirc went without any problems and it was only later when I started adding other bits and bobs that I started to find issues! Must learn to stop tinkering!

I think the longer outlet tube that gets formed when you add a temperature probe into the outlet is causing an air pocket to form which I am not getting rid of before I activate the pump.

Next time I'm going to fill the ACE then open the pump valves (not switch on) and finally tip the ACE forward to let the air run up out of the outlet into the boiler. Then I'll mash in.

I've also bought a circular Sillicone seal (for a pressure cooker) that makes a great deal around the edge of the false bottom - I'm trying to make sure no grains reach the pump!

Let us know how you get on with the PID!




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Not one blockage and crystal clear wort after 15 mins. For the sparge i just carefully poured in 10l of water and recirculated it to clear the wort and drained. Very simple and the clearest wort i have ever had by a long shot.

Hi!
Great photo - Heath Robinson would be proud!
What do you think has made the difference? The Flaked Barley? I know some brewers use rice hulls to build a better grain bed.
I was considering using a second boiler for sparging and pumping the sparge water into the ACE, but I was going to stir up the grain bed and let it reset. I'm having second thoughts now; I think I'll pump the sparge water in gently.
 
Hi!
Great photo - Heath Robinson would be proud!
What do you think has made the difference? The Flaked Barley? I know some brewers use rice hulls to build a better grain bed.
I was considering using a second boiler for sparging and pumping the sparge water into the ACE, but I was going to stir up the grain bed and let it reset. I'm having second thoughts now; I think I'll pump the sparge water in gently.

Hard to say as only done it twice but i think the barley must of helped. Also stirred the grain in on the top as i went so didn't have to do much. Didnt take any readings but wort tasted sweet. The temps were fairly stable, probably 1 minute every 10 would of been enough. I poured the sparge water on slowly but i have a metal plate in there with holes. After 5mins recirculating the sparge was clear.
Now looking for some new fittings and a thermowell. Then i need some wood to mount the pump on and a disconnect for the power supply.
 
Good to hear and nice pic. My first recirc went without any problems and it was only later when I started adding other bits and bobs that I started to find issues! Must learn to stop tinkering!

I think the longer outlet tube that gets formed when you add a temperature probe into the outlet is causing an air pocket to form which I am not getting rid of before I activate the pump.

Next time I'm going to fill the ACE then open the pump valves (not switch on) and finally tip the ACE forward to let the air run up out of the outlet into the boiler. Then I'll mash in.

I've also bought a circular Sillicone seal (for a pressure cooker) that makes a great deal around the edge of the false bottom - I'm trying to make sure no grains reach the pump!

Let us know how you get on with the PID!




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cheers mate. i must say its extremely satisfying playing around with this. Loads of fun. I recently threw away a pressure cooker seal, what a good idea. Ordered the parts now apart from a new sensor. I presume this is the same as yours? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201684972856?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Also can you tell me what the name of the socket is you have connected to the box? Cant find one for the life of me.
My PID has been put to use with a 20w reptile mat so far but i love it. Cant wait to try it on something bigger.
 
Finally had some success. Second proper run using the pump today. Yesterday didn't go to plan when the fuse on the pumpo went after 15mins. Not sure if thats cos of a blocked pump but i doubt it. Went out all of a sudden. Once again it wouldnt drain and i couldnt unblock it. Seems to have an air pocket, took forever. Undeterred i had another go today mashing in slowly using 1kg of flaked barley as a base. I didnt stir just put the pump on full and away it went. Not one blockage and crystal clear wort afrer 15 mins. For the sparge i just carefully poured in 10l of water and recirculated it to clear the wort and drained. Very simple and the clearest wort i have ever had by a long shot.
Going to be using my PID the next timei do this as was a pain manually turning the thing on and off. Its do able but very easy to forget.

thanks for posting that pic, ive thought about this myself after watching the grainfather vids, i like the idea of clear wort, i was worried id be creating work rather than making it better.:thumb:
 
How about some of those high strength magnets on the feet then just clamp it to the side of the boiler when it's in use?

What is the transfer rate of your pump? I mean L/hr or whatever is used.

Will give it a go as have some in the draw. Specs say 8l per minute but probably lower. Seems reasonably fast though. Was 6kg of grain and 20l water.
 
Hi!
Found this on t'Interweb today - it's a cake tin with holes drilled in it. Good idea for a recirculation system. Perhaps it could be suspended lower in the tun to reduce the force of the water hitting the grain bed. It may also catch any stray particles circulating around.

Sparge-Pan.jpg
 
I've also bought a circular Sillicone seal (for a pressure cooker) that makes a great seal around the edge of the false bottom.

Hi!
Great idea! I like it a lot! When I put the false bottom in the ACE there are two areas where it does not make a perfect fit with the ACE wall.
My false bottom is 28cm, but the closest gasket I can find is 26cm - I'm hoping it will stretch.
Did you have to reduce the size of the false bottom? How easy is it to get the FB to into the ACE, i.e did the gasket cause a lot of resistance?
 
Hi!
Great idea! I like it a lot! When I put the false bottom in the ACE there are two areas where it does not make a perfect fit with the ACE wall.
My false bottom is 28cm, but the closest gasket I can find is 26cm - I'm hoping it will stretch.
Did you have to reduce the size of the false bottom? How easy is it to get the FB to into the ACE, i.e did the gasket cause a lot of resistance?

Could you slice into an old syphon tube or air line for a fish pump? If all my brews went like the last i would not have need for one.
 
Cheers mate. i must say its extremely satisfying playing around with this. Loads of fun. I recently threw away a pressure cooker seal, what a good idea. Ordered the parts now apart from a new sensor. I presume this is the same as yours? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201684972856?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Also can you tell me what the name of the socket is you have connected to the box? Cant find one for the life of me.
My PID has been put to use with a 20w reptile mat so far but i love it. Cant wait to try it on something bigger.

That's the sensor - here's the link to the one I bought http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322025349783

As for the socket, if it's the one that connects the temperature probe to the box this was added on for me by someone competent (clearly not me! :whistle:). It's not strictly necessary - just means I can detach and swap in/out probes at a later date if needed. The easiest way would have been to run the sensor through a grommet in the box wall and straight onto the PID.

I'll let you know how I get on with the issue of an airlock developing in the "tube" that connects the probe to the outlet. It will be easy enough to fix, but I think it has restricted my flow rate to date.
 
Hi!

Great idea! I like it a lot! When I put the false bottom in the ACE there are two areas where it does not make a perfect fit with the ACE wall.

My false bottom is 28cm, but the closest gasket I can find is 26cm - I'm hoping it will stretch.

Did you have to reduce the size of the false bottom? How easy is it to get the FB to into the ACE, i.e did the gasket cause a lot of resistance?



Hi Bigcol

I originally tried some very thin silicone tubing around the outside of the FB but the fit of the FB is already quite tight and the tubing made it a nightmare to get in and out of the ACE.



I ordered this gasket http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172388669...49&var=471217286864&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT



It's a 26 cm version (inner diameter) - the outer diamater is about 30cm. I don't put it around the FB, I just slide it down on top. The gasket is a little bigger than the internal diameter of the ACE so you can see in the pic attached that that half of the gasket has tipped onto its side, but when you push it all down with your fingers it forms a perfect seal!
a93840bb96467eeaeab940414c3e89e9.jpg
 
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