Ace electric boilers?

[nigelnorris]

Looks like the Ace boilers are back in stock on eBay:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221617833736

New digital version is about £60 more than the old one though.

Specs show it as 900W/1600W/2500W switchable, which is nice.

 

[BrannBrew]

Did you use an immersion chiller? You should find that constant stirring whilst the chiller is running should have it down to temperature in about 10-15 mins.



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I did use an immersion chiller. Next time I'll stir it. I didn't stir it and it went from near boiling to about 40 in 20 mins or so it was the last 20 degrees that took ages. So I'll try that trick

 

[BeerCat]

Specs show it as 900W/1600W/2500W switchable, which is nice.

Thats great. I do wish mine would boil faster so if i didnt already own one this would be the one i would buy.
Has anyone succesfully managed to wire a controller to reduce the voltage yet?
I have all the parts for my Inkbird PID and will be wiring it up soon as new box arrives.

 

[BrannBrew]

Thats great. I do wish mine would boil faster so if i didnt already own one this would be the one i would buy.
Has anyone succesfully managed to wire a controller to reduce the voltage yet?
I have all the parts for my Inkbird PID and will be wiring it up soon as new box arrives.

I also was going to do down the Inkbird route however mines labeled the 2500w model so think its too powerful for the Inkbird to handle so would like to see if any 2500 users are using a Inkbird too

 

[nigelnorris]

haha silly me. Sorry for the rubbish post that this has replaced.

 

[yeastinfection]

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271508913547

Are these at a cheaper price?

 

[nigelnorris]

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271508913547

Are these at a cheaper price?

No that's just an urn, not the same. Main difference is lack of insulation making it less suitable for mashing. Plus no FB or bag. Other differences, the 2500W element is overkill for boiling and it lacks proper hose connections.

 

[yeastinfection]

Ah ok. Thanks

 

[BeerCat]

I also was going to do down the Inkbird route however mines labeled the 2500w model so think its too powerful for the Inkbird to handle so would like to see if any 2500 users are using a Inkbird too

Ah yes, they only take up to 2kw i think. I wonder what PID's people use with more powerful systems? Mine will be wired as soon as the new box arrives.

 

[Fil]

Ah yes, they only take up to 2kw i think. I wonder what PID's people use with more powerful systems? Mine will be wired as soon as the new box arrives.

its the relay's used in these controllers that limit the power they can switch,
the limit is 10a.

The solution used by stc1000 based controller builders to overcome this limitation is to fit a secondary relay into the box, so the stc1000 built in relay switches power to the secondary higher power rated relay which in turn switches the element load feed.

Pid controller builders simply employ a higher rated SSR in their build.

If you want to employ an off the shelf inkbird plug in controller with a higher load than its rated for, you could perhaps use a secondary power controller to limit the draw on the inkbird. however that will involve a lil diy and boxing the avoiding of which is the main reason for using the inkbird :whistle:..

 

[donchiquon]

I also was going to do down the Inkbird route however mines labeled the 2500w model so think its too powerful for the Inkbird to handle so would like to see if any 2500 users are using a Inkbird too

Hi Brannbrew

It might be worth taking the bottom panel off the ACE to check which elements have been wired.

Mine are labelled up as 2500W but inside only the 1600W element is wired up. The 900W element connections have been snipped.


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[yeastinfection]

i should stop reading this thread,ive just bought a peco boiler,, but its not shiny like the Ace, i like shiny. and its digital,i also like digital, its digital & shiny, i need to lay down :mrgreen:

 

[donchiquon]

Ah yes, they only take up to 2kw i think. I wonder what PID's people use with more powerful systems? Mine will be wired as soon as the new box arrives.

Here's where I ended up with help from Fil, various others on the forum, and someone infinitely more qualified/safe than I am to build it!

I used a 40 amp SSR and PID, in combination with a voltage dimmer to reduce the strength of the heating element. I'm not sure if the dimmer was strictly necessary but the ACE now keeps mash temp at only 1/4 power.

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[donchiquon]

Duplicate post

 

[keat64]

i should stop reading this thread,ive just bought a peco boiler,, but its not shiny like the Ace, i like shiny. and its digital,i also like digital, its digital & shiny, i need to lay down :mrgreen:

I have the Ace.. yes it's shiney, but everytime I use it, there's a new scratch appeared.
I think brushed would be better

 

[Chippy_Tea]

I have the Ace.. yes it's shiney, but everytime I use it, there's a new scratch appeared.
I think brushed would be better

 

[Zephyr259]

Hi Don, what pumps are you using in this set-up? I'm saving towards setting up my full system, you can only do so many brews in a 10L stockpot, and am starting to swither between the easy option of a Grainfather or going back to the idea of using an ACE and slowly modifying (in all my non-existent free time).

Thanks

 

[donchiquon]

Hi Don, what pumps are you using in this set-up? I'm saving towards setting up my full system, you can only do so many brews in a 10L stockpot, and am starting to swither between the easy option of a Grainfather or going back to the idea of using an ACE and slowly modifying (in all my non-existent free time).

Thanks

Just a couple of 12v eBay specials @ £12 a piece! Just make sure they are rated for high temps. A search for "solar food pump" will narrow it down quickly.

The ACE is a cheaper option and I've not actually modified anything (just added bits on) but I guess I have spent plenty of time playing around with lots of options and variables before I reached a set-up that I was happy with. All part of the fun.

Having said that I also did plenty of brews in the ACE on its own, using it to heat the mash water, mash, batch/fly sparse and then boil.

I added on the boiler so that I could forget about boil overs and save time by starting the boil as soon as I'd starting draining the wort.

Then I added the extra ACE as an HLT to save more time and hassle heating water on the stove - together with an Inkbird I can set it and forget it.

Cheers!



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[BeerCat]

Here's where I ended up with help from Fil, various others on the forum, and someone infinitely more qualified/safe than I am to build it!

I used a 40 amp SSR and PID, in combination with a voltage dimmer to reduce the strength of the heating element. I'm not sure if the dimmer was strictly necessary but the ACE now keeps mash temp at only 1/4 power.

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That looks most impressive. . You have made me realise the box i ordered wont be big enough. Do you have a link for yours? Appologies if you posted this before.

Done my first step mash today uysing the Ace and all went well until about 35 mins after hop addition. Kept cutting of again and refused to boil. Bizarre thing is as it cut out the level of thew wort dropped instantly by about an inch. Must of been a build up of bubbless. I stupidly used up some hop pellets and i guess they coated the bottom and freaked out the thermostat. Was also unable to drain again so had to tip the lot in a bucket. Fingers crossed its not infected.
Does anyone else run into this problem using pellets? I wont use them again thats certain.
Not sure but i thought i could smell burning and the green light has gone after turning yellow. Maybe its time to return this if i still can.
Not to be disheartened i am going to look for some new kit to cheer myslef up.

 

[nigelnorris]

That looks most impressive. . You have made me realise the box i ordered wont be big enough. Do you have a link for yours? Appologies if you posted this before.

Done my first step mash today uysing the Ace and all went well until about 35 mins after hop addition. Kept cutting of again and refused to boil. Bizarre thing is as it cut out the level of thew wort dropped instantly by about an inch. Must of been a build up of bubbless. I stupidly used up some hop pellets and i guess they coated the bottom and freaked out the thermostat. Was also unable to drain again so had to tip the lot in a bucket. Fingers crossed its not infected.
Does anyone else run into this problem using pellets? I wont use them again thats certain.
Not sure but i thought i could smell burning and the green light has gone after turning yellow. Maybe its time to return this if i still can.
Not to be disheartened i am going to look for some new kit to cheer myslef up.

Have you got a flase bottom in there? I've used nothing but pellets and they do layer up but on top of the FB, none ever seem to get down to the very bottom of the boiler. I've def not experienced any cutting out or other boiler issues.

I've been thinging about putting a layer of muslin or a nylon filter bag on top of the FB to act as an extra filter, not sure whether it'll be too hot at that point though. Going to try a hop spider first though, looks simpler.