Ace electric boilers?

[Fil]

an ebay standard volt/amp meter is a doddle to set up, to measure the amps you simply loop the post switching ssr and power control live feed through its 'polo mint' ( a ferritr ring which may have a few enameled copper wire windings already). The volts will be measured via the power lead probably red n black wires. In which case balck would go to negative and red to live, pick up the live post ssr and power control again to get the output voltage, taking it from before ssr and or power control and you will pick up the input voltage.

you can drive fans off the dc ssr drive voltage bearing in mind the fan will only run when the ssr is switched on.. to confirm check the max power draw the ssr drive voltage is rated at and subtract the (switching) power rating of your ssr, most pids afaik will drive at least 4 ssrs, so as long as any fans used dont draw more than 3x ssrs you should be fine

btw I use leaf hops mostly.

 

[EarwaxUK]

The 900W element is disconnected in the older version, the one without the digital display. To the best of my knowledge no one has successfully reconnected it, or least if they have then they didn't post it here.

If you have the new version then it should all be hooked up and giving you the choice of three power levels, 900, 1600, 2500.

No idea about the thermostat. Not sure how many here have your version yet, not many, so not much discussion about that here so far.

Thanks for the response.
I've got the version with the electronic screen for the thermostat (which doesn't work) which I think is the newest model. Frankly I feel like I've been taken for a ride to be honest. First of all it turned up with no false bottom, hop strainer, or grain bag. Then I was sent the wrong components.
Now it seems that the thermostat is broken or disabled and the 900W element might not work. It specifically says in the ebay listing that it has 3 power outputs, so I'm pretty sure it ought to work.
Not sure if this is bad luck or poor service!

 

[Bigcol49]

Few things i noticed during my last brew were lots of bubbles in the pipework.

Hi!
I've recently done a "wet" run with the new system.
I had problems getting the pump to prime. Like @Donchiquon I found that tipping the boiler forward allowed bubbles of air to escape from the back of the tap; this allowed the water to fill the pump and it ran without any problems.
Colin

 

[gerbs]

The 900W element is disconnected in the older version, the one without the digital display. To the best of my knowledge no one has successfully reconnected it, or least if they have then they didn't post it here.

I have reconnected the 900 watt element, it is not easy because they cut the ends off right to the insulation,so you have to chip away at the insulation to give you enough to connect to, but in my opinion for what it's worth this boiler does not give a strong enough boil without the 900 watt connected, I am an electrician so did PAT test after doing the mod, I have done at least 10 brews since and have checked the wiring a few times to see if there is any sign of heat damage and so far so good.

 

[EarwaxUK]

I have reconnected the 900 watt element, it is not easy because they cut the ends off right to the insulation,so you have to chip away at the insulation to give you enough to connect to, but in my opinion for what it's worth this boiler does not give a strong enough boil without the 900 watt connected, I am an electrician so did PAT test after doing the mod, I have done at least 10 brews since and have checked the wiring a few times to see if there is any sign of heat damage and so far so good.

Any chance of a photo? I'm no electrician and I'm not fussed about the thermostat (already had an inkbird going spare) but I'd really like both elements to work.

 

[gerbs]

I will try to do it at the weekend, never attached an image before so be gentle with me :lol:

 

[EarwaxUK]

I will try to do it at the weekend, never attached an image before so be gentle with me :lol:

Haha, you and me both!

 

[BeerCat]

The 900W element is disconnected in the older version, the one without the digital display. To the best of my knowledge no one has successfully reconnected it, or least if they have then they didn't post it here.

I have reconnected the 900 watt element, it is not easy because they cut the ends off right to the insulation,so you have to chip away at the insulation to give you enough to connect to, but in my opinion for what it's worth this boiler does not give a strong enough boil without the 900 watt connected, I am an electrician so did PAT test after doing the mod, I have done at least 10 brews since and have checked the wiring a few times to see if there is any sign of heat damage and so far so good.

Nice one. :thumb:I am sure many on here will be pleased to hear that. I don't boil in mine any more as i have a bigger pot now but i normally ended up doing a 90m boil to compensate for the 1600w element. Took an age to get up to temp as well. Look forward to the pics.

 

[BeerCat]

Thanks for the response.
I've got the version with the electronic screen for the thermostat (which doesn't work) which I think is the newest model. Frankly I feel like I've been taken for a ride to be honest. First of all it turned up with no false bottom, hop strainer, or grain bag. Then I was sent the wrong components.
Now it seems that the thermostat is broken or disabled and the 900W element might not work. It specifically says in the ebay listing that it has 3 power outputs, so I'm pretty sure it ought to work.
Not sure if this is bad luck or poor service!

Contact them and send it back mate.

 

[BeerCat]

an ebay standard volt/amp meter is a doddle to set up, to measure the amps you simply loop the post switching ssr and power control live feed through its 'polo mint' ( a ferritr ring which may have a few enameled copper wire windings already). The volts will be measured via the power lead probably red n black wires. In which case balck would go to negative and red to live, pick up the live post ssr and power control again to get the output voltage, taking it from before ssr and or power control and you will pick up the input voltage.

you can drive fans off the dc ssr drive voltage bearing in mind the fan will only run when the ssr is switched on.. to confirm check the max power draw the ssr drive voltage is rated at and subtract the (switching) power rating of your ssr, most pids afaik will drive at least 4 ssrs, so as long as any fans used dont draw more than 3x ssrs you should be fine

btw I use leaf hops mostly.

Thanks Fil, are you saying you can and there is a point in running more than one SSR connected to one PID? I think i will put up some pics and tag you as i am struggling to follow. I have a 12v amp/voltmeter i will try and connect to my 12v pump first and see if i can suss it. Whole thing is giving me a headache to be honest mate but it is also fun(ish).

 

[Fil]

check your pid instruction sheet to check if it will support more than 1 x ssr the pids i have experience with Auber brand and sestos brand both do supporting 6-8x ssrs.

So if you have 2 x elements you can provide power via 2 x ssrs off independent power circuits each supplied by its own plug and switched by its own ssr etc but both can be controlled by the same controller....

piggybacking fan power off the dc control voltage will also work with the drawback it will only be on when the element power is also on.

imho the easiest solution to internal box heat is to mount the heatsinks externally to the box

 

[Jcdonnan]

is it this one ?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Homebrew-...880886?hash=item464dda9336:g:V9cAAOSwZJlXMuwT

Yeah that's the one, only used it once and it was with a stout so not loads of hops. Worked well, no hop debris in fv. Havent tried the beer yet but seemed fine on the day. I had to bend the handle as it's to long to sit in the ace, the hook on it means the actual mesh sits below the water line so hops would spill out. Jus put a slight bend on it and it hooked on fine to the side.

 

[Jcdonnan]

Thanks for the response.
I've got the version with the electronic screen for the thermostat (which doesn't work) which I think is the newest model. Frankly I feel like I've been taken for a ride to be honest. First of all it turned up with no false bottom, hop strainer, or grain bag. Then I was sent the wrong components.
Now it seems that the thermostat is broken or disabled and the 900W element might not work. It specifically says in the ebay listing that it has 3 power outputs, so I'm pretty sure it ought to work.
Not sure if this is bad luck or poor service!

I have the newest model and there is definitely 3 outputs, 2 switches, 1 for 1600w 1 for 900w and leave the both on for the 2500w. Yours sounds faulty my thermostat works fine aswell. Contact them for a replacement

 

[EarwaxUK]

Contact them and send it back mate.

I have the newest model and there is definitely 3 outputs, 2 switches, 1 for 1600w 1 for 900w and leave the both on for the 2500w. Yours sounds faulty my thermostat works fine aswell. Contact them for a replacement

I've been on the phone with Ian from Ace who (after some initial confusion) has been quite helpful. They're sending me a new one out today which they should have tested before sending.
Fingers crossed, it'll be here shortly!

 

[gerbs]

So first attempt at adding pictures not good quality but just shows the connections, each element has its own feed so I can control separately, if you are wondering why the ace is covered in duct tape, I added three layers of that insulation you fit behind radiators, the third pic shows my brew controller, that's if they have uploaded properly :whistle:

 

[Bigcol49]

Hi!
Great mod - thanks for the pictures.
Can you explain a few things, please?
How did you remove the ceramic insulation? What will we see when the insulation is removed?
How did you make the electrical connection to the element?
Did you simply wire in the 900W directly to your control box? If so, does that mean the 900W element can be switched on independently?
What about the boil-dry overload?
Sorry for so many questions.

 

[gerbs]

Removing the insulation was a bit tricky, you have to nibble away at it with side cutters but be careful, all you have is about 5 to 6mm of metal to connect to after you finish because you need to leave some insulation. The connectors are made from 15a connector block with the insulation removed and the cable is heat resistant, the sort you would use on an immersion heater, and if you look at the picture of the controller the socket has the 1600w plugged in and the white cable coming out from the left has a socket on it to plug the 900w element into, a bit heath Robinson but when I made the controller, which is an old bulkhead light fitting with two mini contactors in, one for each element, I only was plugging in the one element but the boil was poor so that is why I did the mod.

 

[gerbs]

Sorry forgot about the boil dry bit:whistle:not connected but as long as you have filled it before you switch it on it will take a fair old time to boil dry and by then you have lost all your wort and would be ready for suicide anyway:lol:

 

[Bigcol49]

Hi!
Thanks!

 

[BeerCat]

Excellent mod @gerbs Thanks for sharing i cant wait to rip the back of mine and have a look. Hats off to you. I bet the 800w would be perfect for mashing.

@Bigcol49 pump is working perfectly now i bleed it. Bit slow on taking that one up. Have been stirring halfway through as well. For the sparge i pour in around 12 to 15l and recirculate form 5mins then drain. The filter was useless, dont buy, blocked in 5 mins.