BeerCat
Landlord.
- Joined
- May 6, 2015
- Messages
- 5,292
- Reaction score
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Try Sandy, this is her email GutenKitchenEquip <[email protected]>
Explain what you want, she is really helpful.
Cheers Foxy, sent a mail will see what happens.
Try Sandy, this is her email GutenKitchenEquip <[email protected]>
Explain what you want, she is really helpful.
Didn't @mgkpancake replace the element and post a video showing how to do it on the ACE microbrewery thread?
I may be mis-remembering as I've had a couple of drinks and can't find it. Certainly replaced something.
So...the stainless pot is really the only original bit left on yours?
Oh, and the pump! :lol:
No, he got a new pot with the element, I think he has the control panel and the pump as original items but I reckon he will be looked after, seeing as they use his videos for promotion purposes. I reckon he should ask for a free fermenter to be sent to him to get some promotion going on them.
:lol: the only original thing in my ace is the pump (low fail risk design) and the wires. The switch has melted, the kettle element broke (so whole kettle had to be replaced) the temp cut off switch broke. I paid extra for the control board and front panel and just decided to replace those just recently (nothing wrong except the board had sloppy soldering job) I haven't had the best luck you could say. I'm still team Guten ya know? Just wish to have a smooth brew day.
I had a klarstein unit earlier in the year (same as ace). I sent it back as the sugars were burning on the base and tripping the cut out. Very frustrating on brew day. Possibly my fault ( maybe the flow rate was too low? Maybe needed stirring on boil?) but now use a home built herms without possibility of burning... seemed to me that that 2500W element puts aLOT of energy into a small space which risks burning.
Even when on a lower wattage, isnt the unit still 2500w (but only ON for a shorter time)? Th only way to reduce power of the element would be to limit the voltage (can be done but generates a lot of waste heat).
Anyway I was burned and so went my own way (herms using an 18l water heater plus a home built ssr/voltage regulator) but am still looking at all in one systems like a moth and flame... it is only when writing a reply that i recall the brew day pain of burnt sugars / unit tripouts and so it warns me off again......
I had a klarstein unit earlier in the year (same as ace). I sent it back as the sugars were burning on the base and tripping the cut out. Very frustrating on brew day. Possibly my fault ( maybe the flow rate was too low? Maybe needed stirring on boil?) but now use a home built herms without possibility of burning... seemed to me that that 2500W element puts aLOT of energy into a small space which risks burning.
Even when on a lower wattage, isnt the unit still 2500w (but only ON for a shorter time)? Th only way to reduce power of the element would be to limit the voltage (can be done but generates a lot of waste heat).
Anyway I was burned and so went my own way (herms using an 18l water heater plus a home built ssr/voltage regulator) but am still looking at all in one systems like a moth and flame... it is only when writing a reply that i recall the brew day pain of burnt sugars / unit tripouts and so it warns me off again......
The element in the Ace and the GF are from the same manufacturer, the Ace has a 2500 watt and the G F a 2000 watt the Ace wattage is also variable, when setting the steps the time, temp and wattage for each step is entered on the controller. The new Ace as I mentioned now has a 9 recipe memory base and the temperature is set in point 1 degree increments, both new features totally unnecessary.
The Achilles heel on both units is the cemented in element, once that goes it is not replaceable, I would much sooner that instead of Ace having the unnecessary extra features that they make the element replaceable.
But when it comes back to value fo money the Ace takes some beating.
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