Aargh, It's all going pear shaped.

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keith1664

Bewildered
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I'm hoping to get AG#1 in tomorrow... assuming my hops turn up in the post. So I've just been to my LHBS to get the pale malt for a Summer Lightning clone, nope sold out. CRS, nope sold out! If I can't brew tomorrow it'll be another week so I came away with is 4 and a bit kilos of Vienna and half a kilo of Golden Promise (and thats cleaned him out).

So do I just continue with the Summer Lightning with the wrong malt or does anyone have a better idea?

Hops if they come tomorrow will be 100g each of Fuggles, EKG, Challenger and Bobek. Yeast is SO5.

Also I fired up the Electrim bin today and as soon as it reaches the boil the thermostat cuts out. Grrrrrrr, no problem I thought, I'll just bypass it with a kettle lead... only B&Q don't have them so I'll have to pinch one from some other appliance.

And to top it all off I managed to stab myself scraping the B****** labels off Thwaites beer bottles. If theres ever a neuclear war I want to be under a pile of Thwaites beer bottle labels, bloody things are indestructible!

Excuse me for my rant, any help on the recipe front will be gratefully received.
 
Like dave said, with all that it'll most likely be smooth sailing from now on. Best of luck to you! Had similar nerve-wrecking experiences with removing labels from beer bottles by certain manufacturers. Served as a good lesson as to which bottles NOT to stash.
 
jamesb said:
screamlead said:
Kettle leads - try computer/monitor leads they should fit too

DON'T do that. They're not rated for the current and it's dangerous.

Don't worry, I'm an aircraft leccy by trade so will make sure its 13 amp rated, in fact ~I have my eye on the surround amp cable.

Anyway, any suggestions on the recipe front?
 
its not the cable thats the prob its the conector that conects to the kettle lead that has a notch in it to say its rated to run a kettle and safe for wha twe use them for.
if you cant find one check out maplins they carry them
just checke my electrbin or whatever its called and the plug can be taken apart so you just remove plug and put your own cable on it.
 
Ah, hadn't looked to see if it'd come off!

Anyway the recipe.
At the moment I'm thinking.

20l batch.

4.6kg Vienna.
40g Challenger - 90min - IBU 32.32
20g Challenger - 15min - IBU 5.6
20g Challenger - 0min

OG - 1051, FG - 1013
ABV - 5.01

I'd be very grateful if someone who's done this before could comment. Thanks.
 
100% Vienna malt will probably produce a sweeter fuller bodied beer than you will get from a beer made with only pale malt. Having said that, I have never tried to make a beer with only Vienna so I am interested to here how it turns out.

You could have a look here to get some info on Vienna lager
 
So if what I understand is correct then for a sweeter beer I should up the bitterness, correct?
 
keith1664 said:
Also I fired up the Electrim bin today and as soon as it reaches the boil the thermostat cuts out.
If it's anything like my ancient Electrim boiler, which has the older type kettle connector, the thermostat is designed to pulse at whatever temp you set it to.
The idea is to prevent the element from scorching the grain (mashing) and hops (boiling).
You may find this is the case!
 
No, I don't want to make it any sweeter. What I was saying that I will end up with sweeter and maltier using the vienna. Therefore I should balance this by making it hoppier. Yes?
 
This being the first time and me not knowing how much temperature I'm going to lose I'm going to play it safe this time at 66. Just need my strike water to lose 4 degrees then I'll be mashing in.
 
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