A reliable S30 valve

[Jon1964]

Is it like trying to find unicorn poo or the holy grail.
Got 3 replacement s30 valves recently (not the piecing pin type) all miserable fails,different suppliers, different style, all loose pressure.
Anyone recommend a supplier and valve that works out the package.
Cheers Jon

 

[Buffers brewery]

What problem(s) are you experiencing? I'm guessing leaks/pressure drop?

 

[Jon1964]

What problem(s) are you experiencing? I'm guessing leaks/pressure drop?

Sticking valves, inject gas, not over 10 psi, and can hear it coming straight back out.
Swopped valves, another one leaking from around the cap seal - the hamleton bard type where the majority of the valve is on the upper side.
Just so hard to find a reliable one these days

 

[Buffers brewery]

I feel your pain. The S30 valve on the cap is the weakest link and cause of maximum aggravation. You might try gently moving the two rubber bands to make sure they're properly seated. Failing that replace them as they may have been in situ for some time and gone a bit loose. That's where the problem will most likely be.
I no longer use the S30 valve on my King Kegs but some manage to live with them.

 

[Jon1964]

I feel your pain. The S30 valve on the cap is the weakest link and cause of maximum aggravation. You might try gently moving the two rubber bands to make sure they're properly seated. Failing that replace them as they may have been in situ for some time and gone a bit loose. That's where the problem will most likely be.
I no longer use the S30 valve on my King Kegs but some manage to live with them.

Thanks Buffers
Bought a couple of new ones recently online, and that's when the problem started. Wondering now if old stock that's been lying around. Funny thing is my old brass 25 year old ones, with new bands have been fine.
Gradually when finance allows I will be moving over to all Corney keg.

 

[prog99]

Thanks Buffers
Bought a couple of new ones recently online, and that's when the problem started. Wondering now if old stock that's been lying around. Funny thing is my old brass 25 year old ones, with new bands have been fine.
Gradually when finance allows I will be moving over to all Corney keg.

I use cornies drilled for an s30 valve thats a happy medium as I've no room to store the gas at the moment. Works well as long as you don't want really carbonated beer.
Had one batch of s30s that never worked and cant find the order for the ones that did. And annoyingly the really old valves I have are all fine.

 

[CD]

Am I right in thinking that he valves that are causing problems are the ones made from stainless steel, and with the blow-off rubber band covered by a tubular spacer under the retaining nut – as opposed to the brass ones with the retaining nut inside the cap?

Just curious, as I only use the latter type and have little trouble with them.

 

[Jon1964]

Am I right in thinking that he valves that are causing problems are the ones made from stainless steel, and with the blow-off rubber band covered by a tubular spacer under the retaining nut – as opposed to the brass ones with the retaining nut inside the cap?

Just curious, as I only use the latter type and have little trouble with them.

That's the ones the HB stainless steel ones that are crap.

 

[Buffers brewery]

Pay another £10 and get yourself a corny gas post and a proper safety valve.

 

[Jon1964]

Pay another £10 and get yourself a corny gas post and a proper safety valve.

I've got the gas posts here, just need pointing in right direction for the safety valves.

 

[Buffers brewery]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pressure...c3962f653:g:zzcAAOSwv-NWZU7f&var=420203048143

 

[CD]

From an engineering point of view I don’t see why those valves should give trouble. Is it something to do with the sealing washer or the blow-off band?

 

[Buffers brewery]

The problems I experienced were IMO as a result of the rubber band(s) degrading from age. As they are under constant tension they creep over time and loosen their grip on the valve body. While it’s an excellent piece of value engineering and it is “fail safe”, using the rubber band to both seal and provide the necessary pressure to achieve a reliable seal is a bit of a stretch (pun intended ). If changed regularly and routinely they could be reliable, but as they’re not the easiest things to change, just a little nick can prove catastrophic after a relatively short period of service.

 

[CD]

The same applies to the earlier type of valve, so I test what pressure they are cracking at, and if it is below about 8psi I replace the band. I have gone over from the brown ones, which stretch after a short time, to yellow ones which feel more silicone like, but not convinced they are perfect. What does IMO stand for?

 

[Buffers brewery]

In My Opinion