450 gr added hopbomb (20 liter)

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Joski

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Hey guy's , i brewed the Mangrove Jack's recipe nr 1 ipa kit (almost done) .. i did add 200 gr for starters to my 20 liter brew but when i did the gravity reading and sampled the beer i didn't find it hoppy at all (my pink grapefruit ipa limited also from mangrove jack's was great with 200 gr) , so i added more! Also i did add 500 gr beer enhancer and 25 gr amarillo (boil) in a later stage! Airrated the brew and again did add some fresh yeast to eat some of the sugars so my bottles wont explode when i fill them. I bottle in 3 day's from now. I transfered to another bucket allready 2 times (last time after 2nd fermentation) .. my question's : 1. Is it safe to bottle in 3 days? 2. The airlock is active but fg is ok so is it ok to bottle? 3. How will i know if all thr sugars are gone now? 4. Are there other things i must take caution for?. The brew is very nice now and very fruity, luckelly not infected also .. did cost me loads of money and time though so i want it to be amazing! :-)
 
Hey guy's , i brewed the Mangrove Jack's recipe nr 1 ipa kit (almost done) .. i did add 200 gr for starters to my 20 liter brew but when i did the gravity reading and sampled the beer i didn't find it hoppy at all (my pink grapefruit ipa limited also from mangrove jack's was great with 200 gr) , so i added more! Also i did add 500 gr beer enhancer and 25 gr amarillo (boil) in a later stage! Airrated the brew and again did add some fresh yeast to eat some of the sugars so my bottles wont explode when i fill them. I bottle in 3 day's from now. I transfered to another bucket allready 2 times (last time after 2nd fermentation) .. my question's : 1. Is it safe to bottle in 3 days? 2. The airlock is active but fg is ok so is it ok to bottle? 3. How will i know if all thr sugars are gone now? 4. Are there other things i must take caution for?. The brew is very nice now and very fruity, luckily not infected also .. did cost me loads of money and time though so i want it to be amazing! :-)

If you're at your recommended fg but you have a bit of airlock activity, you could just reduce the amount of priming sugar to compensate. Use a plastic bottle as a carbonation tester. When it gets rock hard, beer has carbonated and it needs to be chilled to stop the yeast. I'd leave beer for 2 weeks min before bottling if og below say 1.060 and 3 weeks if og is greater.

I've bottled as 1.019, but you need to take into account the yeast you use. eg i've found a wheat beer yeast I use won't go down past 1.010 but others I use get down to 1.002

back to your questions.

1. No I don't recommend it - 14-21 days from pitching the yeast.
2. Depends (see my explanation above)
3. Depends how well your yeast attenuates. You can always taste a sample.
4. Don't keep transferring more than needed or opening the FV - Each time increases the risk of something getting at your beer. A plastic bottle is a great way to guard against bottle bombs providing your beer had had 2-3 weeks fermenting.
 
If you're at your recommended fg but you have a bit of airlock activity, you could just reduce the amount of priming sugar to compensate. Use a plastic bottle as a carbonation tester. When it gets rock hard, beer has carbonated and it needs to be chilled to stop the yeast. I'd leave beer for 2 weeks min before bottling if og below say 1.060 and 3 weeks if og is greater.

I've bottled as 1.019, but you need to take into account the yeast you use. eg i've found a wheat beer yeast I use won't go down past 1.010 but others I use get down to 1.002

back to your questions.

1. No I don't recommend it - 14-21 days from pitching the yeast.
2. Depends (see my explanation above)
3. Depends how well your yeast attenuates. You can always taste a sample.
4. Don't keep transferring more than needed or opening the FV - Each time increases the risk of something getting at your beer. A plastic bottle is a great way to guard against bottle bombs providing your beer had had 2-3 weeks fermenting.
Thnx a lot for your answers! The test with the plastic bottle is new to me, i will try it this way! :-) . And the brew was allready fermented (14 days in) , i just added some yeast again to eat the sugars from the 500 gr brew enhancer(i boiled and cooled and added to the brew at much later stage) so also it is allready dry hopped some days ago.. it is not possible to wait again 14 days to bottle, i think it might not be ok to leave the hops in there for such a long time. I think :-) . They are in there for 3 days allready now.. I do the plastic bottle test in 2 days from now ;-). :thumb:
 
Thnx a lot for your answers! The test with the plastic bottle is new to me, i will try it this way! :-) . And the brew was allready fermented (14 days in) , i just added some yeast again to eat the sugars from the 500 gr brew enhancer(i boiled and cooled and added to the brew at much later stage) so also it is allready dry hopped some days ago.. it is not possible to wait again 14 days to bottle, i think it might not be ok to leave the hops in there for such a long time. I think :-) . They are in there for 3 days allready now.. I do the plastic bottle test in 2 days from now ;-). :thumb:

Ah, the main ferment would have all been over so 500g of B.E won't take weeks to ferment out :grin:

My plastic bottle carbs up normally in 5-7 days. If it's not getting hard (ooh matron :lol:) by day 4 I tip the bottles top to bottom to rouse the yeast and put them somewhere a bit warmer (or turn the heating up a bit) . I keep my thermo-pen next to the beers and take measurements often and even overnight they go no lower than 20. normally 20-22 degrees. Others find it takes them 2 weeks to carb. YMMV.
 
Ok i wait, i did put some brew allready in plastic bottle so i am going to wait a few days now. If i am lucky the airlock stops also within that time :-D
 
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