2.4 kw double element boilers

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clarkeuk

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hi all
do any of you use a boiler with two 2.4kw elements and if so have you come across any problems as I have been told you cannot use them both on the same ring main
cheers
 
hi all
do any of you use a boiler with two 2.4kw elements and if so have you come across any problems as I have been told you cannot use them both on the same ring main
cheers

i use 2 pico elements and have no issues.. all i do is plug them in different wall sockets in the kitchen just to be safe.. saves brewing time and makes it so if i have an element fail i can carry on with the brew and replace an element after

DSC_0538.jpg
 
cheers alcoholx
would you say it halfs time to get to a boil

ive never actually timed it but, yes i would say so

i only use one element to get to mash temp as i am usually measuring grain and hops ect while the strike water heats up... so it gives me a bit more time, but i use two elements to get up to mash out temp then to bring it up to the boil.. i then turn one off as the boil is far too vigourous with both plugged in
 
The old formula Watts divided Volts = Amps applies to what you can stick into a socket.

So 3,000 Watts divided by 230 Volts = 13.04 Amps Which is why most 3-pin plugs are fitted with 13 Amp fuses so that they can handle most domestic appliances up to 3,000 Watts.

With a modern ring-main you should be able to plug 2 x 3,000 Watt appliances into two sockets on the same ring-main without any trouble ...

... but I would use two Single Sockets rather than one Double Socket because some sockets might overheat with a 6,000 Watt load.

My boiler has a single 2,400 Watt element. It does take quite a long time to get to the boil (sometimes I quite fancy two elements) but once it's boiling the single element produces the perfect rolling boil. :thumb:

Boiler.jpg
 
The extra power is nice and does shave off 20 - 30 mins off a brew day.. but I fitted a 2nd element to make sure i never loose a batch of beer with a failed element mid brew.. I have no large stove pots so I would be knackered if the elememt failed
 
If you want two seperate supplies in a kitchen then use 1 standard wall socket and (if available) use the socket that your cooker is plugged into, most houses should have one like this http://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-2-gang-45a-dp-cooker-switch-13a-plug-socket-w-led-brushed-stainless-steel/96324 .

This will be two seperately wired circuits as the feed for the cooker socket is taken from the cooker not a ring main.


http://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-2-gan...ug-socket-w-led-brushed-stainless-steel/96324
 
Unless you have the iron, kettle, toaster and every other kitchen appliance running while brewing then the ring main will easily take the 5kw from 2 elements, but as mentioned above, best to use 2 different sockets.
 
The extra power is nice and does shave off 20 - 30 mins off a brew day.. but I fitted a 2nd element to make sure i never loose a batch of beer with a failed element mid brew.. I have no large stove pots so I would be knackered if the elememt failed
Cheers alcoholx
Never thought about it for a back one so got one ordered if for nowt else but a back up 👍

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Can you plug one in to the cooker socket (separate circuit from general sockets) and one into general sockets?

Because the use is longer than expected for general household items of high current draw, Make sure the wires in plugs are screwed tight and use good quality plugs and fuses, having loose wires or using cheap plugs means they get hot, can melt and cause shorts, or even worse, fire!
 
Can you plug one in to the cooker socket (separate circuit from general sockets) and one into general sockets?

Because the use is longer than expected for general household items of high current draw, Make sure the wires in plugs are screwed tight and use good quality plugs and fuses, having loose wires or using cheap plugs means they get hot, can melt and cause shorts, or even worse, fire!

"Yes."

The Cooker Socket (i.e. a plate and integral socket from which an electric cooker is supplied and NOT a socket into which you have plugged a small cooker) is usually supplied with 6mm diameter wires with a 32 Amp breaker fitted. It is totally separate from the ring-main for the house's sockets.

On the down side of using cooker points in the kitchen, do you really want to boil off +/-3 litres of water into your kitchen?

If you do, I sincerely hope that you have a good quality extractor fan. :thumb: :thumb:
 
i brew outside as its just easier and i dont have a garage.. i have one very long kettle lead and a cheap asda 13amp wheel type extension lead.. the extension has 13 amp 3120 watts when unwound written on it.. you have to unwind the extension or itl create resistance and you wont get full power and the extension could get hot... but that applies to any high draw appliance.. and i plug them in a seperate wall socket just for safety. unless you have very old wiring in your house then it really shouldnt be an issue, ours was rewired 25 years ago, obviously if you have old bakerlite sockets and wierd corded twisted wiring then be careful.
 
......... ours was rewired 25 years ago ....

Our house was built about 25 years ago so you may still have the old two-blade capsule type fuses in which case these MCBs provide a very cheap upgrade ...

http://www.screwfix.com/p/wylex-6a-s...urve-mcb/48030

... which are really easy to select and fit.

Check the amperage ratings of the existing fuses, buy the relevant MCBs, isolate the fuse box, pull out the existing fuses and replace them with the relevant Amp rated MCB.

Simples! :thumb:
 
I recently added a second element to my Peco boiler, really helps with getting up to mash temp and then boil temp very quickly - has probably shaved about 1 hour off my brewday.

I added a new socket circuit from the consumer unit in my garage to run the second element. The main consumer unit (breaker/fuse box) is in the garage so was very easy to add the circuit there where I brew.

My upstairs and downstairs ring mains (socket circuits) are protected by 16amp breakers so will not take double elements on the same circuit. I have doubts that just changing a breaker for a higher rated one is a great idea tbh - depends on size of wiring used and exact setup I guess. Probably best to check with a qualified electrician before just changing a breaker for a higher rated one.
 
....... I have doubts that just changing a breaker for a higher rated one is a great idea tbh - depends on size of wiring used and exact setup I guess. Probably best to check with a qualified electrician before just changing a breaker for a higher rated one.

I agree entirely ... :thumb: :thumb:

... but having searched the Thread I can't find where this has been suggested! :?: :?::?:
 
My upstairs and downstairs ring mains (socket circuits) are protected by 16amp breakers so will not take double elements on the same circuit.

These are not ring mains then, they are radial circuits supplied via one leg rather than 2 which is why they are rated at 16A.
 
I agree entirely ... :thumb: :thumb:

... but having searched the Thread I can't find where this has been suggested! :?: :?::?:

Sorry Dutto, misread your post about changing old style capsule fuses with new MCB's, I can see now you were suggesting changing like for like in terms of rating.
 
Oright guys
Thanks again for all your help i have now fitted and tested my boiler wi two 2.4 kw elements
Topped up boiler to 25 liters with water from hot tap (combi boiler)
@ 52 °c
It took 7 min to strike temp of 70°c and a further 13 min to a rolling boil a total of 20 min
Was very happy with that .
Plugged into different sockets on same ring main
I did notice one of the sockets and plug feeling warmer than the other but seemed ok (will keep an eye on that )
This test was done in my kitchen at a staggering 29 °c at 9pm so I expect times.to lengthen a small amount in more normal temps(12°c 😊) but these Temps give me a good excuse for a assault on mi turbo cider stocks
Thank u all again

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