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Yes, you are right. I made a confusion. What I am speaking of is cold crash that is also good for clarification of the beer.

In my modest opinion, "Cold break" happens long after the fermentation is over (after about twice the fermentation time) and consists in bringing the beer temperature close to 4 °C. Some argue that the decrease in temperature should not exceed 1 °C a day but other think there is no need to...

I never use any product to sanitize my bottles. I just rinse them with cold water after use using a bottle brush. Then, the day I need them (often the day before), I cover them with a piece of aluminum foil (around 10 cm x 10 cm, carefully applying the foil around the neck) and put them in the...

To be more accurate I monitor the wort temperature using a BrewBrain Float device and the fluctuation of the temperature of the wort is small. The probe the InkBird regulates from is inside the freezer (not the wort). When I say that the temperature goes on decreasing by 2 °C I speak of the...

It's too late. I have re-pitched a pack of yeast. Fermentation seems to be much faster now.

For which gravity is the Fermentis recommendation given? My wort is at 1.048 (20 l). I think you are probably right. As for the temperature fluctuation you may also be right.

I have long abandoned the batch priming as it is practiced conventionally. The essential reason is that by adding a syrup to the fermentation vessel before bottling, I never managed to have an identical carbonation from bottle to bottle. To do this, it is necessary to ensure homogeneity of the...

I don't think so. It will increase the period but the cold accumulation when going from SP+0.5 to SP-0.5 is much bigger than the one when going from SP+0.3 to SP -0.3 Thus the amplitude of the wave will be bigger while the cooling slope (from SP+DS to SP-DS i.e. the slope of the freezer's...

I think this is useless for me as the time for temperature to increase from setPoint -DS to setPoint+DS is huge (around 30 minutes). Probably depends on the quality of the insulation of the freezer. The only trouble is the inertia of the cooling device.

If I were you I would buy a second batch of bottles or try to salvage some from the landfill.

As the fermentation continued to drag, I added a Mangrove Jack's M21 pack that I had left. Fermentation is good now. Moreover as the maximum temperature limit of the yeast is more (25 °C) than what I believed (22 °C) and the ambient temperature in my garage this morning is only 22.3 °C I opened...

I use an Ink Bird too and the value at which it starts to cool is setPoint +0.3 °C and the value at which its stops cooling is setPoint - 0.3 °C. The trouble is that when the freezer stops cooling (at setPoint -0.3 °C) there is some inertia and the temperature goes on decreasing roughly 2 °C...

My fears were well founded about the Float, the last measure has now rejoined the initial curve.

I think I better increase the temperature by one °C. I already noticed that the advice changes depending on the translation, the packet or the spec. sheet, etc.

We are now 48 hours after pitching and there seems to be a definite acceleration (slope is now around 30 pts /24 hours). Nevertheless I need to be careful with the monitoring by the Float device that can sometimes be hampered by the foam resulting from the initial oxygenation.

@MashBag, @Clarence Your discussion is of great interest to me. It forces me to put myself a little (even totally) in question. When I started brewing some five years ago I decided without really thinking very long, to opt for an all in one equipment. I never used a classic (multiple vessels )...

OK. I note it.

I am afraid of this too.

Yes it is exactly this. The manufacturer says optimal temperature is between 15 °C and 22 °C.

Yes I have but not each time.