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Just a heads up: Selling my 21mm (for taps) and 38.1mm (for Peco electrical elements) Qmax Hole Cutter Tools on Ebay. These are brilliant for cutting holes in stainless steel boilers quickly and neatly if anyone needs one or both sizes. Only used both tools for cutting a couple of holes so...

I've used US 05 a good number of times, prior to moving to liquid yeasts and would have no quambs about starting it at 20°C and then dropping to 18°C for fermentation. Should be fairly clean ferment even at 20°C constant - although if you have no cooling facility then it may have drifted up...

I have just moved from pre-crushed to milling my own. Only done one brew with the milling my own but my efficiency for that one brew has jumped from around 70% to 80%. Clearly efficiency is not the be all and end all and I've always been happy with how previous brews tasted but certainly...

See post #15 on this thread, this is how I did it, https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/threads/wort-chiller.71987/

Reheat it, take a gravity reading at 18degrees or thereabouts so you know where it's at now and take it from there. Hopefully will finish off once warmed up.

If extra heat just for brewing may be simpler to build a chamber in the corner and heat that with a tube heater cycling on/off controlled by an inkbird 308. Or a cheap fridge off ebay setup as a brew fridge would give you cooling and heating options. If you generally want to make the...

If steeping, which I do, turn off heat, chill to just under 80c (which takes only 2-3 minutes with copper coil chiller) then add your flameout hops and leave for 30 mins before chilling to pitching temperature. At under 80c you get a great hop addition but no bitterness is added.

I'd love an ITC-308, please pop me in the draw !

No adverse affect, should be better - the 6g packets of yeast supplied in some kits are a bit on the light side. 11g is better.

All grain awaits - slippery slope and all that !

Welcome to the Forum John, I am in Wetherby so not far from you. Good luck with your brewing adventure !

In addition to Marris otter (lots off) and some crystal (10%) , a small amount of chocolate malt (2-5% for some bitters) and roasted barley (5-10% for Stouts) would be handy if you want to brew those styles, you can usually order those malts in 500g or 1kg bags which will cost you nothing and be...

Free! Send me a conversation with your address and I'll post it to you

Thumper, I have a push in copper pipe with holes hop filter for the peco you can have if you private mail me you address Buckshee of course!

just seen the reference to a chest freezer, so yes that fitted with a collar to lift the lid could be a great option - with tube heater and inkbird 308 added to control everything

Whatever heat source you go for you really need a controller/regulator - a lot on here use an inkbird to regulate the heating - otherwise your tube heater or heating mat will be on permanently and risk overheating your brew. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B018K82UQU/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20...

Do you have a brewfridge or some other form of temperature control so you can brew at say 12-14°C ? As a true lager kit will probably use a lager yeast which needs to be fermented at lower temps than an ale. If you can only ferment out at ale temps (18-20°C) then its worth looking at a kolsch...

I use the oxy clean stuff (white powder in the laundry aisle) from either Wilkos or Morrisons on my PB's. Remove any easy to budge sludge and then pop a scoop of oxy clean powder in and fill with hot water and leave for an hour, most of the crud will be gone and the rest should clean off...

I made my box out of insulated board from B&Q and ducktape - works really well and exactly the size I needed to stand on top of my brewfridge. The board was very easy to cut - I used an old blunt saw but a stanley knife would have been up to the job. Thread is here, Post 19 has images...