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Looks healthy to me and all normal .

Hi , yellow is right for a lager and you're better off brewing a little short as this will improve mouthfeel and so on . :thumb:

At least 2 good thermometers are needed for watching the mash etc . Watch out for cheap (£5 ish ) digital ones as they often are out by a few degrees .

True Aleman , I only adjust for ales with lactic . Pilsners etc needs better water to start with

Total used so 47 litres Nobby .

Many seem to forget about lactic acid when thinking on water treatment , as mentioned adding sulphate may not be wanted but crs is sulphate (calcium sulphate ) unless using calcium chloride . Just a thought .

I would check again tomorrow night and if gravity is stable drop temp for a few days before bottling .

asda smart water will do you .R/o water would need correcting with all sorts like calcium sulphate and so on . My advice is have a good few reads thru https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/water-knowledge. It will be confusing at first , and probably after too lol . Most of us in this land...

For a lager you'll be better off with some bottled water . You also need to treat your water for any brews , the water report isn't complete (i'm also seven trent ) but you would have astringent beer with those readings as is . Too many bicarbonates for a lager .

Looking good , well done on your first all grain .

Fair point , got ya :thumb:

Hi , what you plan is good and fine . If you wanted to you could just leave your brew in the first fv . Dry hops should be added to the fv after around 3 to 4 days after start (after the first stage ) using a hop bag makes it easy to remove hops otherwise you'll need some kind of filter ...

I try and use a filter but even then mine gets bits in so i turn it off and blow down the out end till it pushed wort back down and usually starts up again . Make sure to run em with hot clean water for 30 mins after using otherwise it will fail fully .

Was gonna say the same , forget the instructions on the tin . You want to ferment around 18c in thr fv so if room is 20/22c then the brew would of been 24c upwards . ( the yeast heats up the wort in the first few days by around 2c )

yes in short but that depends also on the time mashing . Step mashing gives better efficiency (usually ) but also sparging will effect it too .

Got to disagree here , yes temp , yes psi but defo yes length of line plus diametre . The longer the line and the thinner the pipe creates more resistance also the serving height of the tap to the keg also affects things . At 7c and at 30 psi ( around right for a hefe ) you need around 4ft of...

Yes , that's what I do . Even a hefe at serving of 20 psi I only use around 4 ft using 3/16 .

You need more like 4 to 6 ft depending on temp and height from keg

. Your water can also cause harshness too , :sulk:

Hi i would say fuggles are the traditional English hop .