Search results

Hi All, I've got a plum tree which has lots of plums growing on it this year - still a way off ripe - but its got me thinking about trying a batch of plumb wine. I am currently only brewing ale so have a lot of the kit required for fermenting wines but could do with some demijohns. I am...

I would still leave it for 2 weeks in primary even in warmer temps - the real business of fermentation is normally done in around 3-4 days (once the yeast gets going) so you've probably only shaved a day or so off that with the warmer temps. The remainder of the 2 weeks is to allow the yeast to...

I agree with Leon, leave it another 2 weeks and it should be much improved. As a general rule of thumb 2+2+2 works well for brewing standard strength ales, thats: 2 weeks fermenting in FV, then bottle 2 weeks carbing up in the bottles somewhere 18-21°C 2 weeks conditioning somewhere cooler...

Interested to hear how the Proper Job clone is coming along, I have cultured up the Austell yeast out of a bottle of Proper Job and wouldn't mind trying your recipe soon.

The Coopers European Lager kit uses a true lager yeast - so needs fermenting at 12-14°C. Its a one can kit so you need to add 1kg or similar or fermentables - should work well with the Coopers Brew Enhancer 1kg or dried spray malt etc. Hope this helps

Your Local Shop should offer friendly service and good advice (for all levels of brewer). Oh and of course a decent stock/range of equipment and kits. I'd go in and have a chat, tell them your brewing story to date and see how you find them and their product range/pricing, maybe pick up...

Everyone who has one thinks it's great Clint, enjoy once it arrives, always exciting ordering new kit

Most recipes use 70% efficiency, not sure what you will achieve but don't worry about that first time out, just make sure you note your starting gravity (at 21°C) so you know if your process is about right. Wilkos do a thermometer (and a hydrometer if you need one of those) if you have one...

Add a 1/4 protofloc tablet into the boiler (last 10 minutes of the boil). A full tablet will be way too much for 9 litres brewlength and may give issues with clumbing in the boiler. A half tablet in a 23l brewlength is more than enough. For 9 litres your recipe would be: 1.8kg Pale Malt 90g...

Hi Cint, Ideally you want the boiler wherever it needs to be to heat prior to running your wort into it. Moving 30 litres or more of hot wort in a large boiler is not recommended. So if using gas you want your boiler on the ring before running wort from the mashtun into the boiler, if...

I use 130g of Tate and Lyle Table Sugar for 22.5l of US Pale Ales. Gives a perfect level of carbonation for me. Not tried using any other form of sugar for priming.

Thanks MyQul, For US Pale ales I aim for 2.3 volumes of CO2, which broadly speaking is 130g of Tate and Lyle for batch priming 22litres of ale. I drink them after chilling in the fridge so quite cold. Could be a bit lively if served much warmer.

Lagunitas IPA Clone Brewday yesterday went well. Some pics below and the recipe - toned the grain bill down so I end up with circa 5% ABV (Instead of 6.9%): 4.0kg of Crisp Pale Malt (from Malmiller) 470g Crystal 30ebc 200g Crystal 150ebc (should have been 120ebc) 310g Wheat Malt 290g Munich...

Sounds great, not used those hops, will have to look them up.

Cheers Bri, Lagunitas IPA clone brew day went well today, will post the recipe and pics from my pc in a day or so.

The ones in the fridge should be much, much less gushy - assuming the one you opened was at room temp ?

Will watch the build with interest - exciting times

The brew from post #1 of this thread Vermont Cascade Pale Ale has developed into a very nice pint. The Vermont yeast for me adds a 'warm' almost spicy taste to the beer, (used it a few times). The only thing to be aware of is its low flocculating so for 'regular' brews does result in a hazy...

Welcome, I'm in Wetherby so not too far from you. Have fun and hope your first brews turn out great !

Another option is to add your strike water (at a couple of °C over required temp) to the empty mashtun, leave for 15 or 20 mins, then adjust with some boiling or cold water to achieve your required strike temp. Then dough in your grain and start the mash. Works for me with my stainless...