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I agree

I am in the habit of always starting my fermentation at the lower end of the recommended range, I leave it as is for 4 days and then ramp up 1C every 24 hours to the top of the range where I leave it until a total time in fermenter of 14 days. I have no idea if this actually gives a better beer...

I guess it is, I have had the luxury of paying £20 for 25kgs from a local brewery for the last few years so it's a bit of a hike in price, but as it lasts me quite a long time it won't hurt too much.

Sadly not, it is a 440 mile round trip. Encouraging though to know that they gave you some yeast.

They do, but to compare, Geterbtrewed charge 34.89 for 25kgs uncrushed Simpsons MO, Malt Miller charge 43.16 each. MM is off weighed a little as they only charge 5.64 to deliver the 2 sacks whereas Geterbrewed is 11.25 Making it 83,23 for Geterbrewed or 91.96 for MM If going for crushed...

Please don't encourage him he's already hijacked the thread :laugh8:

Oh, and because I enjoy the process of brewing and succeeding in making a nice beer and crushing is a part of the process i guess

If you are referring to my suggestion to use salifert kits and their inaccuracy at low concentrations of Calcium, well you can always scale it up using say 10 times the water and then scaling the drops back down to get a more accurate kit, this was in fact suggested to me by Wally at Phoenix...

Yeh I reckon you're right, lots more convenient for them that way especially in the bulk they use.

Yeh I decided from the outset not to risk the glass. I have used plywood, drilled with a holesaw to allow heat to move around. Apply several coats of varnish so it's easy to clean and doesn't develop mould and it's good to go.

Well, after the recent thread about using old grain but not because of it, I was browsing the subject on the web. I have never wanted a humongous mill cluttering the place up but this caught my eye and as I needed to order a little grain I decided to convert to milling my own. Unfortunately I...

Exactly, somebody asks a water question and as soon as Peebee goes down his defuddler rabbit hole it drives the OP away. So far as water for homebrew and treating it goes once you grasp it, is quite simple though it took me a long time to understand it, at least as far as making homebrew is...

Just looked at the Malt Miller recipe for Ghost Ship and they attempt to mimic the dual strain yeast by the following method: Yeast: 2x S-04, 1 x Lallemand Farmhouse Fermentation temperature/steps: Pitch 2 x S-04 at 19c, Day 4 take a reading after dry hop, you are looking to achieve 1.020, at...

I believe it is only available now for commercial breweries. It isn't afaik, a polypin would be the best way I guess it's just getting some that's a problem.

hmmm, that was my fear

@peebee The only person who can make a complicated subject even more complicated at the same time he says he is simplifying it. Yes JP's book is great, there are more chapters than just water.

I would suggest getting a professional water report, at least once. https://phoenix-analytical.co.uk/index.html is a good place. As your water is low mineral then you may not need to get it done again, just check it with a Salifert kit. THIS is the method I use and very easy to do.

Indeed, I did discuss that perhaps they had used a bottling yeast for the Ghost Ship above. Broadside is not bottle fermented afaik only the Tally Ho makes that claim. I emailed them yesterday asking if they did the Broadside in mini casks, to which they replied no. They do offer polypins so I...

Cheers, yes on Youtube there were some criticisms of the hopper size but having seen how quick it goes through I cannot see an issue, I don't think as yet I ever had a grain bill much over 5Kgs

It would appear that it is, from the Adnams Website: TALLY-HO BOTTLES Rated 4.9 out of 5 98 ReviewsBased on 98 reviews Click to go to reviews £27.99 Barley Wine 7.2% 12x330ml Tally-Ho is a limited edition barley wine that has been brewed at Adnams since 1880. Bottle conditioned and dark...