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I've added star anise towards the end of the boil. That was nice. Same for black treacle. I don't think priming with black treacle is going to add much, especially in a flavourful stout. Edit: I could be wrong. MM's link looks interesting.

Apparently, I'm Romanian this week. Weekend's just started, though. My good intension is to exercise (my liver) before, during and after Christmas. According to the experts 'exercise' is good for you :thumb:

Don't worry about introducing O2, mate. The yeast would deal with any O2 that might get in there. I use the 30L Speidel FVs. They have plenty of head space for a big CO2 'blanket' :thumb: I think hydrometers are easier and more accurate, TBH. Refractometers are good for the pre fermentation side...

I'd get a replacement regulator, mate...

:lol: You could make big lager starters for everyone in the community in one go with one of these monsters.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zRmMFTafFOY :thumb:

Love Ain't No Stranger....... Whitesnake https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-NWZZ3R-Jg .... 'real' before being 'crafted' :wink:

Welcome To The Jungle....... Guns N' Roses https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1tj2zJ2Wvg

You didn't factor in anthropogenic climate change. To future proof your investment, go electric. It doesn't matter whether you walk or drive a ford or drive a rolls royce. You'll get to the home brew shop for consumables and brew great beer. Wort making can be as convenient as you're willing to...

You can't beat a good log burner. The wonderful sense of true craft heat. And the wonderful craft smell of efficiently burning hard wood, ash preferably. And the beautiful, mesmerising unpredictability of the burning flames... better than the bloody coal fire my folks used to choke us with! PS...

At least 48 hours at 20ish degrees C (remember the idea is to propagate yeast, not ferment a clean lager). Eyeball it, check for CO2 production by placing an air lock after 48h, take a G reading... No, you don't have to pour off the spent starter wort from the first step. Just add enough DME for...

I prefer 'glycerol'. That's what we called it in the lab. 'Glycerine' makes some people nervous. Get mine from eBay :thumb: It can be sterilised in a pressure cooker, if necessary.

.......:lol:

Have a look at this. Depending on the temperature of your beer, you should be able to carb well below 30 bar! Remember it takes time, even when force carbing.

Follow clibit to the dark side, keep the yeast happy and you won't look back :thumb:

I was planning to test marmite, but didn't get round to it. I agree, though, go with a product formulated specifically for brewer's yeast. They don't cost much, since they go quite a way.

1L aerated starter (1.020-1.030); step up to 3L aerated starter (1.040), in a 5L water bottle? When done, mix well and pour off 3 x 1L splits. Refrigerate. Build up one of the 1L splits as before (first step @ 1.040 this time) for a 5 gallon brew. If they're stored in the fridge for any longer...

I used to have a loose, unsubstantiated theory that kits were designed by big breweries to make their beer taste better than ours :lol:

I'm starting to think this is a common problem. I don't use kits, but I remember one or two members on this site advising folk to ditch the yeast that's included with kits. All I can say is that it's more often a problem associated with the yeast. Have a look here for possible solutions.

Audience.......