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+1 for Inkbird. About to take delivery of number 3 to take care of my HLT. The other two look after the fermentation fridge and kegerator. They are tooooo easy!

Happy Birthday Mick....fully impressed with whoever is choosing your birthday gifts :thumb: The tap is a bit tricky to tighten up - I struggled for a while to get a pair of grips to make contact properly, and ended up positioning the tap on the outside so that I could then give it an extra...

Ive just checked Amazon and it's running as a "lightning deal" with 15% off. Ends in an hour....maybe Inkbird is renewing it each day?.....

Just a direct conversion of Palmers 6 weeks at 40 degrees.

Sounds more familiar...I've reversed the temperature drop and ramped it to 13.5 degrees which is the top of the yeasts range. Then I'll drop to 4 degrees and leave for 4 weeks. ......but I still don't understand how the traditional method is supposed to work!

I've cracked on and transferred to secondary. Already a tasty drop so happy with that! I'll gradually drop the temp down to 4.4 degrees. I've been thinking about Palmers lagering advice and am a bit confused. If I had racked and chilled to 4.4 degrees when 75% attenuated the yeast would...

I've had the Brulosophy (m)Oktoberfest fermenting for a week now with Mangrove Jacks M76 Bavarian yeast at 10 degrees (range is 8-14 degrees). The gravity is already down to 1013, and I'm planning to transfer to secondary and lager for 6 weeks at 4.4 degrees (as per John Palmer). I've let...

I'm in! Thanks!

Ahah! Thanks again Fil. I notice that it doesn't come with a heatsink, but I think I've found a model that does... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222122322848?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Will this one be ok?...I've checked the terminals and they indicate DC, so...

Perfect - found this one which sounds like the 40a version http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/262446610611?_mwBanner=1 Thanks again!

Thanks @Fil! All ordered! :thumb: Any idea what spec of SSR will I need to pair it with to control a 1600W element? Is this the right flavour? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Solid-State-Relay-SSR-25DA-H-25A-3-32V-DC-90-480V-AC-w-Heat-Sink-PK-/322117320536?hash=item4affb03f58:g:X04AAOSw1h5XQWiZ Thanks!

I'm just about to order the PID and notice there are a few different types... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361435166002?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT...

In please! Sounds like a great book.

Hi @Smileyr8. I think I'll be joining you in this as soon as I finish a kegerator build. I'm going to order @stpete's PID and temp sensor. Are you going to use an SSD with the PID or a dimmer/variable voltage thingy? Have you decided where and how you will fit the temperature probe?

Thanks @stpete. Looks like a good piece of kit. I'm not sure it is compatible with my inkbird but I might just buy a new PID and box it all up with the variable voltage adjuster/dimmer. It sounds from your post like I could use this instead of an SSR...

Thanks @simon12 and @peebee, sounds like it's worth the risk using the pump (£10!) without a filter in place. If it fails I'll swap it to a more powerful version. Thanks again!

Just thinking about whether my temperature probe is in the best place it could be...underneath the false bottom but probably still too close to the boiler element. I like the look of your T-fitting with thermowell. What sort of thermowell did you use? I've got an Inkbird 308 so might have...

I've been using a little solar pump to recirculate during the mash and even to test a whirlpool at the end of the boil. So far I've gotten away with leaving the bazooka filter and false bottom in place during mash and boil, but last week the bazooka clogged during both mash and boil To be...

Just a quick update on some fun I've been having trying to use the ACE to heat a recirculating mash. When I tried using it for the mash a few weeks ago, employing a solar pump feeding back into the top of the ACE, and an Inkbird 308 probe tucked just under the false bottom (at the edge away...

Good question. Worked fine! 2000w dimmer with a 1600w element. Just warm(ish) to the touch. I dialled the element down to about 1/8 power and it produced less than 1 degree of temperature overshoot compared to 4-5 degrees on full power. I may have to (reluctantly) move it out of the ice...