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You can have a switch to select the element but for safety you should switch the 240v via relays, there is a design here; http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-part-1 I built the same on my control panel although I went biab in the end so only use 1 element

The male fitting has a plastic end which seals, no need for PTFE tape

I have reached Homebrew bitter nirvana thanks to the @peebee treatise. Steps to enlightenment; 90% Maris Otter 10% wheat 35 ibu of whatever served on hand pull with sparkler

Ey up Bezza, I’ve spent over £100 on these things and each one has failed in exactly the same way. Inkbird claim it is a probe failure yet I have replaced the probe on one unit at their suggestion and it had no effect. They seem to suggest I am using the probe in some manner that is causing it...

Inkbird have kindly agreed to send me a replacement unit, out of the warranty period. The reason they give for the fault is a broken probe. Will report back when the replacement fails

Happy to apologise when they literally sort it out

not to start an argument but I’ve picked up two second hand beer engines and they are superb. Both needed a bit of tlc but they are so simple and parts are readily available if needed. I have set up per @peebee excellent advice and the beer runs out way before any loss in quality. Both are...

It’s complete bollocks, they work fine for a few months then suddenly the reading starts going haywire despite the probe being in exactly the same position. If @Inkbird where actually interested in trying to solve the problem they might have asked for some of us to send the faulty units in to...

Yeah that has sorted it, what a strange place for the setting, I wouldn't have found that in a million years! Thanks athumb..

Anybody else noticed a change in their ubidots plots? I have SG as a calculated variable but it has recently started to only plot to 2 decimal places, it used to show a smooth curve but now just shows step changes as below. Can't work out why it is doing it, any ideas?

It’s all about balance, you only need 1/2 tsp VWP at flameout 😂

The seals on my cylinder were pretty funky so I replaced those, these guys should be able to sort you out Home page - Hand Pumps, Beer Pumps, Fonts, Gas Regulators, Cask Craft Ale, Beer Engines, Spares, Aspirator Breather

I have just refurbished a hand pull from eBay, I used sodium percarbonate to clean everything and it came up pretty good. I use this now after a keg to clean which seems to work pretty well We Can Source It Ltd - Pipeline... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07RLHRS5K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Not...

Vwp is worth a try

If the lines are in the fridge then the temp must be constant so it must be pressure drop causing the co2 to come out of solution. If it happens when the beer is flowing then it must be caused by a restriction in the line somewhere so yeah if it’s a specific keg the dip tube might be a good...

Those gas lines to the keg look pretty small, you might not have enough gas flow when serving, that would drop pressure causing co2 to come out of solution

What pressure is your reg set to and what temp is the kegerator?

Your water looks pretty good for helles, I would just add acid to get to 5.3 pH, see what that batch tastes like and adjust from there

The only thing I have to watch for on my system is the recirculation rate, too low and I don’t get a good temperature control, too fast and I don’t get enough flow through the bag. Currently looking at solutions to this, think I’m going to split the recirc flow between the lid and the whirlpool...

Yes it works perfectly. I don’t sparge and mash with full volume. I recirc during the mash and do a mash out for 20 mins with a good stir before removing the grains. I consistently get 70% mash efficiency, bit lower for higher gravity brews. Personally I don’t see the point in adding extra steps...