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No, the wheat malt should help not hinder. It is more likely what you suggested with the temperatures.

There is one other possibility you could add to that, the Goldilocks factor of the grain crush. I don't know if you crush your own grain but the milling has to be just right. To fine and it will form a gluey porridge before it can be converted. To big and the starch will not be attacked by the...

Anyone wanting to get into the knowledge of water additions in simple terms Martin Brungard Brunwater knowledge. https://www.brunwater.com/water-knowledge Acid becomes a personal choice, for me I use phosphoric acid 25%

I use Irish moss every brew, cool wort immediately as boil finishes.I have tried all sorts of contraptions to eliminate getting any trub into the fermenter and have settled with a siphon. I don't bother with a whirlpool, leaving the cooling coil in position seems to direct most of the trub into...

I think the obvious answer would be you must have carried trub from the kettle to the fermenter. The whole idea of using carrageenan is to leave all the congealed trub in the kettle and get clear wort into the fermenter. I have never heard of a cloudy brown ale being normal for the style! Decant...

Here is another article from Braukaiser, a mash that most brewers use professional and home brewers. https://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php/Infusion_Mashing#:~:text=The%20single%20infusion%20mash%20uses,fermentable%20sugars%20that%20are%20produced.

My reply was to An Ankou about the New Zealand Australia home Brewing site.

There are a few things to take into account. 5.2 pH is the optimum pH level for the enzymes to work at. Trouble is it isn't a suitable level for most styles, for bitter and IPA I look for 5.4 to 5.5 pH. Also there is not really any need to mash in any lower or doing a stepped mash with modified...

I think most folk can make their own. Anything else you want to get shut of? I am after a PET fermenter with a cone bottom.

I have looked on there. I thought it was owned by Keg Land? The majority of posts are directed towards them.

What is the pressure tolerance of the yeast, I have never heard of it?

I would have thought you would get better efficiency with MO as the DP is higher than the Pilsner malt.

Comes down to process, get it wrong and you are chasing your tail. Get it right and depending what is in the grist you can look forward to a bright sparkling beer. No additives required. https://learn.kegerator.com/brewing-clear-beer/

If it is like the picture above, could be excess break material in the hydrometer glass giving you a false reading.

I have the Brew Devil, same thing different moniker. Check the calibration of your unit. I check mine every 3 or 4 brews. Use a reliable thermometer that has been checked in ice slurry. They are easy to re calibrate, if that is the case need be.

It isn't a case of the yeast, it is a case of the fermentable sugars in your wort. 68 is moving to the higher end of mash fermentation. Should you be going higher while not knowing then it is nail in the coffin of fermentability. It's all about the beta and alpha amylase during the mashing...

I do know that the breweries I have visited maintain a 10 PSI pressure throughout the cooling process. Tanks are rated to 15 PSI and the main reason is to prevent the vacuum from collapsing the tanks. A side benefit is it partially carbonates the beer. Keep an eye on the pressure as it cools it...

I have read what Martin Brungard had said about it before, I have used his and Brewers Friend (John Palmers) water treatment calculator. Here he mentions it again. Crs

It would be easy to do, but don't use the element, wrap a Keg Land 30 watt heat belt around the bottom, insulate the heat belt onto the kettle knock up a racking arm and control the heat belt using a Keg Land temperature controller. You could even make a temperature probe casing to go from the...

Malt is alkalinity positive, if the pH you are detecting is 5.7 then you will need to add acid to bring it down, that is if at the 5.7 figure you have added some gypsum and chloride adding to much of these, gypsum especially will not result in a good outcome. Use some phosphoric or lactic acid...