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Assuming you know how long you want to leave the beer in the fermenter, and how long you want the hops to be in the beer, then my advice would be to subtract one from the other and add the hops then. But as the comments above show, there are potentially other ways.

You mean yeast from one brew is used for the next? I'd be interested to know how true it is that "most of us" do this. I have never done this and it would be way down the list of changes and improvements to my process (if it would indeed be an improvement).

There are various options but IMHO you don't want to leave the hops in there more than 3 days. So when I dry hop I add them for the last 3 days before I rack off or bottle. In my normal process I allow the primary fermentation to finish which will be up to a week normally then leave it for...

Seems a bit wasteful, more single-use plastic is not a good idea.

I have had a batch of golden ale conditioning in bottles for the last 3 weeks, and they are on the cold garage floor, which is normally fine. I have tried a couple and the beer tastes good but it's a bit flat. I am putting this down to the cold temperature and I will move them to a warmer...

Crisp Chevallier and Amarillo please

Isn't it a requirement to display the company name at your official address?

Yes cleaning wasn't an issue, it came off easily. I don't remember seeing anything as thick and black before. Maybe the yeast (Gervin Gv12) which I don't use very often.

Interesting, I have never noticed that before. Thanks!

I just bottled a batch of golden ale. When opening the FV afterwards I found a nasty looking black ring (see attached photo). There are no funky smells, and the beer tastes fine. Does it look like an infection? This brew was dry-hopped with 30g of whole hops which seemed to remain floating on...

I just added some dry hops to my golden ale, the intention is to bottle after 3 days. I never use a bottling bucket but bottle direct from my grainfather fermenter. I am planning to cool it and add finings to the fermenter on Saturday and bottle on Sunday. I guess that will be a bit more than 3...

I love my GF conical fermenter but for mashing and boiling I have a custom solution, cool box mash tun etc. That fermenter has temperature control, which was the most important thing for me when I got it.

I made a raspberry witbier recently. I used frozen berries and let them thaw to room temperature, then added them for a week. I waited until primary fermentation was finished then just dumped them in. No dry hopping in this beer though. There was a blip on the gravity graph (using a floating...

Yeah, consistency is the main concern I think, rather than getting the highest numbers.

FWIW I have a Pill floating hydrometer and it's always way off at the start, but closer to reality at the end! I intend to do a more advanced calibration to see if that helps, but I am not too bothered as I use a proper hydrometer for both OG and FG, but it's nice to see the graph showing a...

Thanks that pretty much confirmed what I thought. It's not so much chasing efficiency for its own sake, rather that it has dropped recently. I will do some experiments with small mashes and see what I can figure out.

I have had a couple of lower than expected OG brews recently and wondered if it's related to the 25kg bag of maris otter I am using. Googling for mash efficiency, one common piece of advice is to get a mill. Is it really worth it, or are these likely to be instances where they don't have access...

Ha ha I didn't even notice the date. It must have been in the "similar threads" section at the bottom of something I was reading. I don't even remember what!

I did hear that both came from the same agricultural lab near Cambridge.

Interesting idea. What type of beer are you brewing? Do you have any issues with the sugar dissolving fully?