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The Columbus (for bittering) and galaxy (for flavour and aroma) should make a nice fruity APA / IPA

I had a bash with a first gold but was unsuccessful. I put the failure down to trying to grow it in too small a pot and not placing it in enough sunlight

Yeh something's not right there. I calculate that to come in about 15 IBU. Even if there was a rogue decimal place in the first addition (i.e. it should be 25g) then the total IBU would be 48. Head scratcher....

I got mine from the Malt Miller for £50ish I think but that's stainless steel. Reckon you can get cheaper if alternative material was used (e.g. aluminium) but have no experience using so can't recommend (others on here may assist in that regard)

Cracking beer, surprised about the assumed IBU....this beer has always seemed quite malty/sweet to me

I echo the above sentiments, bought the youngs kit in 2016 and im still using bits that were in it

Sounds lovely but i suspect by now you should be (or have been able to) smelling an alcohol smell in there too? Have you seen any signs of Krausen over the last week?

Eh?...might want to revisit the maths there chief!

My MJ NZ Pale was £20ish but I needed to add 1kg of brew enhancer to it so say £5. That would be £25 for 40 pints or 63p per pint (so a bit more than your calcs above suggest) I would say an AG brew would be £5 for malt, maybe £5 - 10 for hops, £3-5 for yeast so say £15 ish. That would be...

very useful folks, thanks very much....sounds like I shouldn't be too far off and saves me shelling out unnecessarily ££ for a 50L pot as I suspected I might have to

Cool, so the addition of 5-6kg of grain to your 20-23L of water, still means you don't manage to make the 30L burco overflow? If I'm readin that correctly then that's pretty reassuring

I tend to go for 5 - 6% ish brews so grain bill is usually 5 - 5.5kg ish. Would you tend to do similar or lighter brews?

How much water do you put in the boiler first though? I'm worried that, when I add the bag, the pot will overflow

I have a home-made cooler mashtun and a 33L SS stock pot. Rather than using the mashtun and the makeshift sparging thing I do, I've been tempted to maybe look at BIAB. Now I'm kegging I don't need to do a full size 23L batch, 18.5-19L will prob suffice. On that basis, I'm concerned my 33L stock...

That's pretty much how mine works (i.e. mainly switching between being heated and not being heated as required to keep it 20oC)....but i do switch it to cooling when i crash cool and/or the rare occasion when the garage is too warm

I dont use the heat mat but my inkbird probe (i bought the extra long type) goes through the lid of my fv via bung/grommet for a tight seal and then into the brew. Not had any probs doing it this way but the probe always gets a damn good clean and sanitize first.

any old 2nd hand fridge that can fit your FV in, you can then add a heater in the bottom (set really low) or connected to a controller (such as an Inkbird) / temp probe Dimplex Thermostatic Tubular Heater IPX4 1ft 40W

yeh I do the same. but I've also seen vids where people have taken the actual posts apart to clean the valves / poppets / springs out inside to enable a decent through clean. But I have what appear to be different posts to most (as shown in the pic in the OP) and it doesn't appear possible to...

Best one I did was an AG APA (5kg Maris Otter, 1kg Crystal) hopped with Columbus, Centennial and Cascade. The stars aligned and it came together beautifully. Everyone I gave a bottle of it too loved it and asked for more.

Yes, this very issue has now had me spooked and so I've had to order some high temp tubing from Advanced Fluid Solutions Ltd in preparation for the next time I attempt to transfer the post boil wort to the jerry can.....as for the current batch that's in the brew fridge, if my brew is full of...