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He says they are made using nylon materials for strength, so I guess not.

So, this was just 3 days after bottling. It already tastes fantastic. i had a clear bottle and could see that it had cleared like a lager, so I agitated and pour all the sediment in.

I have made a Belgian Witbier for the first time. In fact, I am not sure I have even drunk one before. So, my question is …. Should I agitate the sediment in the bottle and pour it all in the glass like with a hefeweizen, or should I pour it slowly in order to keep it in the bottle?

This is a 25L FV and the wort is about 21L. I have used it many times without problems before. Any ideas on fixing it right now as I am thinking this is going to last another 24 hours?

Woke up to this mess with my witbier using the Lallemand Munich Classic Yeast. Do I need a bigger glass at the end of the tube?

I am currently fermenting an American Pale Ale and will be dry hopping with hop pellets in teabags. The recipe says to wait until it gets below 1.020 and then to dry hop for 3 days. I have no special equipment for this, so I am going to have to lift the lid to drop the hops in, and I realise...

I could stop the boil and let it cool a bit, then do this, I think.

I am making a mild and only realised too late that I had forgotten to lift the grain basket before starting the sparge. As a result, the majority of the sparge water was only running through the top part of the grain before hitting the wort! I was only able to sparge effectively for the last 5...

All my ordered kits so far have included hop pellets. My latest kit had vacuum packed fresh hops. Do you just throw them in as they come out of the pack, or do you break them up a bit to expose more parts of the hop?

I have just had my first bottle of my Leffe clone. It has been in the bottle for about 3 weeks now. Unfortunately, the sour taste that I had pre-fermentation is still there. The beer is drinkable, but is not at all like Leffe Blonde. I guess I will just have to rebrand it as a Belgian Sour Ale...

This has been fermenting now for 5 days and the SG is at 1018, so not far off the FG. Still plan to leave it in the FV for another 9/10 days. However, although the sour twang has reduce greatly, it is still there. Maybe the yeast still has some cleaning up to do?

I’ll let you know. I imagine you saw this in the tech details: Sticks well at the bottom of the bottles/casks and forms a nice haze when it is resuspended I will let you know in a few weeks.

Thanks. I did see that, but wasn’t sure what ‘hl’ was! Glad I didn’t put the whole 20g in. :cool:

I am looking to use SafAle F-2 yeast for secondary fermentation in bottles for a Leffe clone. Do you use the whole pack for a 23L brew? It just seems a lot to me.

Yes. The bill included 227g of Aromatic malt alongside 5kg of Pilsen and 227g of pale wheat. Do you think the sourness will fade?

I don’t do any water treatment. I also sanitise with Chemsan, so it’s hard to see how sanitisation could cause it, particularly this early in the process. Let’s hope the yeast works some magic!

I have done about 12 batches in my all-in-one now and usually have a taste of the wort before it goes into the FV. Up until now, everything has tasted pretty good. However, yesterday’s brew was a Leffe clone which all went well, but it tasted very sharp/sour. I did add some crushed coriander...

I find the unit to be really good. I have done several brews now with it and the temperature control is excellent. Some people have questioned how long it takes to go from 20C to 3C for a cold crash, but it is less than 36 hours for me.

OK. And hook the teabag out before transferring into the FV, or just leave it in the kettle?

Do you guy recommend still putting these in a hop spider, or it that redundant with these? I use a Brewster Beacon 40.