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Good tips, thanks! Any thoughts on hops? Was thinking Pilgrim for bittering, EKG mid boil, and Bobek late/flameout. Around 35 IBUs total. And given the grains on hand, any pointers on the recipe above? More or less crystal, for instance?

No, but will add it to my notes for future brews. Don't know that I have ever used it, TBH. What % of the bill do you aim for with Munich?

Hi all, Just got my yeast starter going for a brew day tomorrow, and thought I would seek the wisdom of folks on the forum. My previous attempts at a bitter have been underwhelming. Not awful, but certainly never "moreish". So any advice would be appreciated. For grain bill, am thinking...

Your instinct to follow the instructions is the right one. While they might require a bit of deciphering, it is still the best way to proceed. One note - if I understand correctly, this brew was in your fermenter for 4 weeks. For most beer styles, that would not be a problem at all. But...

I suspect they mean dry hop 4 days after fermentation starts - a lot of NEIPA brewers believe adding hops when fermentation is still active adds to haze/mouthfeel/hop character of the style.

Yes, and good "beer flavoured beers" seem to be much harder to make - less things to hide behind. I posted this elsewhere, but after about 10 attempts I still haven't made an excellent bitter. But every IPA/NEIPA I have made has been fantastic. By no means was that down to my skillful...

Yes, and the beer will likely turn out just fine. As a bonus, you have a great name for it: "Lee's Wet Dog Ale".

Stale hops are said to smell like rancid cheese. Maybe rancid cheese + boiling wort = wet dog?

I have used this yeast a few times, and as reported, it is a quick mover. I don't think you will have any issues with a TT clone, as it is lower gravity, but I did have 1469 stall on a higher gravity beer (an ESB clone) at 1.020. Seems this yeast starts and ferments quickly, but also drops out...

The differences between commercial lager and ale were negligible when I first started drinking as a young man in Canada. Molson, Labatt, Carling, their products were all pretty similar. And still are. I guess I should apologize to you all for Carling, not the best beer Canada ever produced...

I got into homebrewing, and found this forum, because I wanted to be able to replicate the beers I found in pubs on my once frequent travels to the UK. Real ale/cask ale is exceedingly rare in North America. Imagine my surprise to find that the beers I missed, and longed for, are so often...

Yes, that would work.

Do you fill/carb in the same way you would smaller bottles? I have been using 500ml swingtops, but am considering getting some 750ml or 1 litre bottles as well. Have wondered if they need a bit more headroom when filling, though.

A classic.

Brewing today, soundtrack has been Marillion, and the Stooges. Might have to cue up some Hawkwind!

I approve of this.

Excellent idea.

Certainly no harm in that, and it's very simple with the Robobrew. Here's what I do: One hour mash at appropriate temp. Then set RB temp to 75 degrees for mash out, 15 mins or so. When it hits 75 degrees, raise malt pipe. Then I set the temp to boil, and begin sparge. With a bit of luck, it...

+1 to what @Sadfield says. I heat my sparge water, but only to speed things along with getting to boil temperature, and because I already have the gear to do so. You'll be fine with cold or room temperature water if that's what you choose.

Cheers @DavieC Got into my homebrew NEIPA, only been in the bottle for 6 days. Shocking amount of empties discovered this morning.