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A quick update on this one, the room currently has a shower extractor in the ceiling above the kettle and it seemed to be working fine till I hit boiling point. It couldn't quite manage the amount of steam so I had problems with that as well as condensate forming on the fan and dripping back...

You might be right there. This water chemistry lark is enough to drive a man to drink!

Welcome to the forum! :cheers: If you haven't already, have a read of this thread http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=51779 That's how I, and quite a few others made the plunge into all gran. You'll want a stock pot - about 15 litres will do the trick to do 10L batches...

Not sure what your budget is, but Powell Brewing do a 100l false bottom for £53. http://powellbrewing.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=68&product_id=80

Thanks for the input. I've gone with your advice and just added gypsum at 0.4g/L. Out of curiosity, what would be the thinking behind salt and magnesium additions as per the HBF calculator?

Cheers for that. I was thinking of 15g Admiral at 60 mins and a bit of chinook at the end of the boil, so we're on the same lines. I'll give that a go with my sarnies tomorrow :lol:

Right, having spend a few weeks reading up on this stuff I'm almost convinced that I (at least partially) understand it. I'm going to brew a pale ale today using ASDA Eden Falls water. The values for the water are (mg/L) Ca - 11 Mg - 3 SO4 - 9 Na - 9 CL - 12 HCO3 - 30 According to...

I did wonder whether re-bottling so a feasible option, bu there's only a few left so probably not worth the bother. We live and learn.

I'm doing a "whatever's left in the cupboard" pale ale today. Aiming for a nice session beer: 20l 2.7k Maris Otter 300g wheat 300g Crystal 120 EBC That should give me somewhere int the region of 3.8% I've got a pack of Admiral and some Chinook left over. So, what would you add and...

I thought that mighty be the case. It was only a small batch anyway, so I'll just persevere with it. :thumb:

Straight out of the fridge. Not sure of actual temp but pretty cold.

Evening all. I'm in a bit of a desperate situation here. I haven't brewed for ages as I'm still in the process of building my new brew room. I've also drank almost all of my supplies! All I have left is a few bottles of pale that I brewed a couple of months back. It didn't quite hit FG...

Yes, that's true. I'll shut up. :whistle:

I did my first dry hop a few months back with a Chinook IPA. I'd read somewhere (no idea where though, I'll see if I can dig it up) to cold crash before dry hopping. So I got it down to 3°C then put the hops in for 4 days. It was probably the best beer I've made, but the Chinook was 14.6%AA...

I've only ever had 2 stuck fermentatios. Both were AG but I think it was down to too high a mash temperature.

I'll be getting one day f those ME are les from the homebrew shop soon to use as a HLT. I've looked at all sorts of options and I think they're pretty good value. Another alternative is to buy a stockpot and fit an element, tap ect yourself. However this doesn't really save much money in my...

There was a thread on here not so long ago with a similar question, but I can't for the life of me find it! Anyway, someone on that thread (I can't remember who, sorry) said that you need to prime your bottles in order for the beer to carbonate naturally as the CO2 from the keg won't keep the...

I have an under counter fridge in the cupboard under the stairs with an ink bird controller and a 60w heater in the bottom. I built it with the intention of doing some lagers, but I haven't got round to doing any yet. The beauty of it is I can set the desired fermentation temperature and forget...

So, just checking I've got this right, we put the fermenter in the fermentor so that the fermentee can be fermented by said fermenter?

I was planning on reusing the yeast from my Hefeweizen, but I decided I wasn't keen on it so I didn't bother. I'll be following the advice on this thread after my next brew though :thumb: