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This report indeed gives what you are missing, but it does not say what you can add to your brewing water to increase your Ca (calcium) ions SO4 (sulphate) ions HCO3 (carbonate) ions The first can be added using calciumchloride (CaCl) and calcium sulphate (CaSO4). The second can be added using...

I actually do the same since a year or two 😎

On holiday in sunny Brittany, in Morbihan. Three days in a row fields on fire in the vicinity. Luckily we are on the coast (Étel). Temps around 30-32. But the temperature now drops faster in the evening, after 20:00.

Not really. The commercial wits here, Hoegaerden, Brugs Tarwebier, Blanche de Namur, etc. are really not that attenuated. When I used the MJ M21 Wit I got an attenuation of 74%.

Observations from brewing other wheat and weizen beers: German weissbier obtains its haze from the yeast I made a crystal weizen from MJ M20 yeast and a weizen recipe, just by lagering and then bottling without the yeast sediment Other beers where I used more wheat and oats also went crystal...

Don't worry. Wort also contains glucose, which is the simplest sugar. If your yeast would not be able to ferment maltose anymore due to that, beer would not exist. Westmalle also adds its sugar syrup in the boil, and that is a mix of glucose and fructose.

To add something small to the discussion: after I started adjusting my sparge water to pH 5.5, I noticed that I had much less cold haze (I add 2 ml of 10% solution of phosphoric acid to 15 l of water).

@mcscruff : that looks a nice basic recipe, but next time adjust the hopping to 12 grams Citra at 5 minutes, and 12 grams Citra at flame out, and possibly take time to add dry hop, again 12 grams of Citra. And the Chinook and the Citra at 20 minutes instead of 30 minutes.

One thing I noticed after brewing my hoppy saison, tasting after fermentation and even the first carbonated bottle two weeks later, was that it tasted watery. However, moving them after carbonation for conditioning, and having some bottles even in the fridge, tasting one again two weeks later...

Now that's what I call fandom....

Orval on the countryside, to start the weekend.

One of the best beers I have brewed in the past couple of years was a St.-Bernardus tripel clone, with just pilsner malt, only Goldings and St.-Bernardus yeast. I had some Goldings that I could use up and added it spread over the last 15 minutes of the boil. The Goldings were not real EKG, but...

Leffinge, a small village with much farming around it. After I could read, there were two things that always attracted my attention on the one restaurant that was there: "Duvel - Moortgat" and "Van Roy - Wieze" I suppose it must have been that one for the Duvel. We are talking 1972-1973 here.

Yes, the diacetyl rest is actually for people who don't have patience for real lagers (and they will fine them too). The original lager beers were after fermentation stored for at least three months, for clearing and removal of by products. Check out the product you get in this video, at 5:48...

Ook? Fan of Terry Pratchett?

The MJ saison yeast is ideal. No temperature control needed. Will ferment to 1.000-1.002 though. However, that way you could save on your grain bill. Add some more hops at the end of the boil. Definitely EKG. My first beers were made with this yeast, DME and EKG. Extra: you can ferment with...

Yep, had the same last week. But I only dry hopped for a couple of days before I got it. But most hops were already dropped out, I racked it into another vessel with a bit of extra DME and the day after, fermentation was finished.

How much electrical power do you supply, and what is the amount of water that you want to heat? (Water volume * 4186 * Temperature difference) / Power = time to heat The temperature difference is the wanted end temperature of the water minus the start temperature of the water. E.g. 30 l *...

The problem as I see it from a process control view is this. You have a heating element, and beside it a temperature sensor. You will have something that regulates the current through this heating element, you detect the temperature and from this you control the regulator. You start up the...

Is that as a failsafe against overheating, as feedback for temperature regulation of the mash, or for heating your strike water?