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Assuming your hydrometer is properly calibrated (you can do this by putting it in 20° water - it should read 1.000) then your fermentation has stalled. This could be a yeast problem - there are some threads here from people having issues with MJ yeasts - so maybe get another yeast (some here...

Are you? Are you really? "Engine stops". Unless you're ninja fast on the clutch (assuming a manual gearbox and top gear), the car will stop. Dead. /pedant

When your gravity drops such that there are less fermentable sugars in the wort, a newly pitched yeast will likely have very little effect. You'd need to start it first with some DME to get the cell count up and a head start so that it has enough volume to finish out the fermentation. Edit: To...

Cease

That can be problematic as the draw off can pull the liquid out of the airlock and into the beer. Then you've no longer got an airlock.

If you're rehydrating dried yeast (which shouldn't really be necessary) it's best to use some of the wort, cooled. But it's best to keep any handling of the yeast to a minimum and just pitch on the cooled wort. How do you control the temperature of the heat pad? You say 'thermostat', but...

Those gravities don't make sense. The specific gravity of water is 1.000. Beer wort will start well above that and usually won't fall much below 1.010.

Their instructions are less than helpful. Don't say what OG or FG to expect, so I checked it roughly on Brewers Friend with 1.7Kg of LME and 1Kg of DME. Got an OG of 1039 with a FG of 1011 and 3.7% ABV. Did you get anywhere near that OG?

He has another thread here.

The only other likely reason is the yeast. Don't know what yeast is included with that kit, should be a lager yeast, but they often use an ale yeast instead because lager yeasts generally need lower temperatures to work and a beginner would likely not have the kit to control a low temp. Edit...

If the engine stops, it absolutely needs to be re-ignited. Otherwise you're just sitting there making car noises and twitching the wheel. "Is the third land" has me stumped btw. :confused.: @Shaun-p this is a beer kit, yeah? Malt extract and yeast with added sugar. MJ make these (if it's their...

The calculator notes include this:

If it's insufficient mixing, the denser liquid would fall to the bottom of the fermenter. So in effect you would have two 'layers' of wort with different SGs. If you're taking your samples from the bottom, then the readings would be higher and if from the top, lower. You could test this...

They're not even a particularly nice looking car. The only thing going for them is the cosworth engine. But that's not all that special either. If you want a classic, there are so many better ones out there for £55k or less.

Walks

What way is the gas line connected to the regulator currently? If it's a push fit connection like Duotight or John Guest, you could just disconnect there and connect to a short hose with a ball lock disconnect on it. Or just fish around Gumtree or similar for a second hand CO2 cylinder.

Yeah, that's fine. So could be the yeast. Though if you're still getting some activity in the airlock, I'd leave it sit for a bit longer. I don't know what yeast is provided, but lager yeasts normally ferment at lower temperatures 12-18° would be normal. But a lot of those kits include ale...

Grasping at straws here, but have you checked the calibration of your hydrometer? The paper insert in those has been known to slip. Check in 20° water if you haven't already done so. Otherwise it's a bit of a mystery. Those kits should be bulletproof in terms of reaching target FG. The only...

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