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Maybe the number of people googling how to do homebrew has dropped because they've already googled it and are busy in their sheds brewing and getting lathered.

Well I hope their tracking is more efficient than their add targeting. Every time I buy something on the internet I get endless adds for the exact thing I've just bought. I've just bought it duh...

Yes, that's the one. I can never remember the name - maybe because in the 4 years I've had it I've never had a single hop cone off it. This is it's last chance - if it's pathetic again this year I'll be digging it out. The Cascades are absolute beasts and very productive. The Challenger is quite...

Hop garden sorted out. Left to right, prima Donna and 2 cascades. A redsel eastwell (or something like that) plus challenger and progress.

I frequently make Greg Hughes Southern Brown ale - basically a clone of Manns Brown ale. Surprisingly tasty and plenty of body but rocking in at 2.8% abv. Also done plenty of table pale ales also round about the 3% mark.

My go to regular brew is a Cascade Smash using homegrown cascade and Hook Head pilsner malt. A totally reliable excellent pale ale. For a 4 gallon (18L) brew: 7Lb pale malt, 1 oz (28g) cascade at 75m, 1 oz at 15m and 1 oz at flameout. I've almost stopped buying in speciality malts etc as why...

If that's a knife jammed into the car window then it's the world's tiniest knife. Unless that's a really huge car made for giants.

Dropping the temperature will speed up the clearing of your beer. On the other hand if you maintain the fermentation temperature you may get a bit extra fermentation if it in fact hasn't quite finished.

Leaving it the extra week will allow the beer to clear quite a lot before bottling so you'll end up with much less sediment in the bottles. Won't harm the beer at all.

If it tastes OK I'd just drink it as is. It won't look too cloudy in glass sized amounts.

A lot depends on what type of house you live in. If you've central heating then you should have no problem, but contrary to popular belief there's still about 40% of households that don't have CH. I've never lived in a house with CH. So Autumn winter and spring I brew in our airing cupboard...

A problem a lot of garages have is that they can spend quite a lot getting one of their mechanics trained up for EVs only to have them move elsewhere as they now have a very marketable skill. I suppose this will go away as more and more of them get trained up to match the rise in EV numbers.

I've got quite a few LPs but only listen to those I've already recorded onto my computer as MP3s. Sometimes listen to CDs but mostly to cassette tapes. Always one awkward bu**er isn't there.

Just bought and read this new book by Tommy Barnes. A worthy successor to his first book (A beer in the Loire). He's a bit of a comedian so I hope his recounting of his brewing disasters is somewhat exaggerated for comedic effect.

In the past I've put the next brew straight onto the yeast cake. Worked ok. Also just taken 3 or 4 spoonfulls from the yeastcake and added it to next brew. Also worked ok. With cider I've also just slung the sediment from 3 or 4 bottles into the next brew and that also worked ok.

Our car at least (doblo) has a light that comes on with 20 miles left to go. I thought that was normal practice. Of course you've got to be fairly brave to test that out.

No I use it over and over again until it's looking a bit brown. Followed by a good rinse of course.

Pretty sure soda crystals are not caustic soda. The packet says it's sodium carbonate. Alkaline but fairly mild, also good for cleaning stainless steel.

Post drinking I rinse out the bottles then fill with a strong solution of soda crystals - removes every trace of yeast without needing to bottle brush.

Me too. I have labelled bottles before now and they look great for the 3 seconds between taking one from the crate, de-capping and pouring it then putting it aside. Bit pointless really.