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A highly flocculant yeast is supposed to drop out taking some of the bitterness with it. Maybe something like gervin/nottingham would do. It might save having to dilute or blend with another beer.

Buy one of these and connect the BEER IN to the keg and the BEER OUT to Your Beer Engine. There is also a recirculating line that will connect to the water jacket on the beer engine maintaining the temperature You require. You'll also need a check valve and I'd connect an inline JG valve to...

No probs Wez!

Try these Wez they pretty much sum it all up! 8-) Here's the first link Craftbrewer site Some unrelated beer stuff for your enjoyment

If You want to measure Your mashing efficiency then measure before the boil. Brewhouse efficiency is measured in the FV. Deduct the latter from the former and You have the amount lost to hops and deadspace in the boiler.

I'm sure I've seen someone warn of the potential danger of kegs exploding somewhere on another site. This occurs where the bottom/top edges are rolled causing any moisture trapped in the rolled seam to superheat and explode due to the pressure of the steam. I've not heard of many instances of...

It does not matter whether You fly or batch sparge You are just comparing the total amount of extracted sugar in a given amount of wort to the theoretical maximum in the same volume of wort.

I batch sparged with three runnings of approx 15L each No added water. I could have added 5 more liters to dilute to 50L and would have still got an efficiency of 82.5% with an OG of 1.0396

I haven't given the beer I'm drinking a name but I used 6Kg pale malt, 1kg Caramalt, 1Kg of Munich, 175Gms of Bobek 3% 90 mins with 25Gms at flameout. Three weeks later it's bloomin lovely. :)

I calculate My brewhouse efficiency once I've collected the cooled wort in My FV just before pitching the yeast. If I was using 8Kg of nothing other than pale malt with a potential extract of 300 points per KG and I had collected 45L at 1.044 measured at 20C in the FV. Then 44*45=1980 degrees...

I know that You can buy diastatic malt extract from most homebrew shops. This can be used to mash a small amount of none malted cereal grain to improve a spray malt recipe for instance. I've never seen diastatic spray malt powder. The link below explains enzyme activity in an AG mash. clicky

I kegged a brew two weeks ago that was at 35C when I pitched the 4 packs of Nottingham. In the morning it had dropped to around 25C. It tastes great so I would not worry too much about it Wez. I too want a cold store but for the time being have to make do with the hallway which gets a lot of...

What is the width of the kegs at their base? I use LPG now after 15 yrs of using an electrim brewbin/boiler. I love brewing outdoors now and have even brewed in the rain which I could not do with electric for obvious reasons.

Good work MEB! 8-) Should be a nice tasting and looking brew You have there!

I use the same type of burner which is rated at 10Kwh and is 30cm. The larger 40cm one is rated at 13kwh. You lose a lot of heat to wind unless it's positioned in a draught free area but a shroud will improve that situation and will save a lot of gas. I can supply the larger 30cm and 40cm...

I only ever lost one brew due to infection and that was one of the first kits I made around 1985. I shared a house with a friend and his missus and there was a real damp problem in almost every room. I wasn't overly concerned about the damp until My beer got infected with something that...

I want one now! :lol: /BZ