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Good enough reason not to brew in this weather or just rack off and store under airlock until things cool down and the brew can clear down. As long as it's kept under airlock green beer can be stored for a surprisingly long time and still have live yeast availble for the secondary fermentation...

Keeping a fermentuing brew cool can be a problem, ideas such as leaving the FV in a cool bath can help though, or even in a downstairs cucboard may help. Dont get too worked up about temperature though, it's not ideal and a racing ferment as it's known can cause a problem around off flavours and...

Answer is no Nic-P, As the fermentation runs it produces carbon dioxide gas which acts as a barrier to airbourne infections and anything you allow to touch the surface of the yeast head will undoubtedly transfer into the beer. (no matter how well you sterilize your teatowel). The brown residue...

Should be OK davesiv but be careful when you decant into the vessel not to get air into the brew which might cause infections. Suggest you syphon rather than pour it. ½ teaspoon per pint is correct priming rate. TC

I guess it's just down to what you're used to. As long as you dont mix the 2 it's not a problem, anyway, it's easy enough to convert from one to the other, being a tad older than you guys I'll stick to god old pounds, shillings and pence!!!!! TC

Sorry, typo there, should read "autolysis" off flavours that we can all detect in a badly bottled/cellared beer. You're absolutely right jamesB, most if not all beers will clear down except those with protein hazes due to poor hot or cold breaks, but any with excess yeast deposits will most...

Got the "knack" 20 odd years ago Jamesb, had to when judging 30 odd bottles of poorly made beer on the National judges table and people didn't listen to sound advice. Seriously, the less yeast lees in the bottle, the less chance of autolisation of the final taste as I'm sure we'll all agree. TC

Forgot to say, bottling cloudy beer ends up with a cloudy pint when the yeast sediment rises with the bead. Even slightly opaque beer should not be bottled, (IMHO), and there is enough yeast suspended in the green beer to produce a secondary fermentation required for bottle conditioned beers. TC

I always rack off into demijohns and allow to rest/clear for a week. The beer is ready to bottle when it's clear at the rate of ½ teaspoon sugar to the pint bottle. I just prepare the sterilised bottles with the priming sugar using a small funnel which is kept for the job then syphon into each...

Ano, If bottling I'd increase the OG with more grain and decrease the sugar which attenuates leaving a thinner beer. Bottled IPA should have a more maltier hoppy flavour then this recipe will give. I can give an IPA recipe than has won many awards over the years and you can see the difference...

Agree Fuggles and Goldings although Challenger work well. Styrian Goldings give a superb nose added @ Alemans rate. The Sams Pride recipe I've given above was set as the fixed recipe in the national brewing championship some years ago and proved very popular. It's designed to be kegged not...

Or this, based on London Pride. Sam’s Pride (named after my son). 6 ½ lb crushed malted barley 15 ozs crushed crystal malt 15 ozs flaked maize 1lb. 4ozs sugar 1ozs Target hops (1) ¾ ozs Challenger hops (2) ½ oz Northdown hops (3) for aroma TC

Heck of a beer this one. More of a strong ale/barley wine than an IPA IMHO. Understand the stepped hop additions to obtain the different flavours from them, but have to say, a tad complicated for what really is a very simple beer type. Good IPA is pure malt, hops, yeast and water, the secret...

Try this Reviled, makes a really good ale based on London Pride made by Fullers brewery. Sam’s Pride (named after my son). 6 ½ lb crushed malted barley 15 ozs crushed crystal malt 15 ozs flaked maize 1lb. 4ozs sugar 1ozs Target hops (1) ¾ ozs Challenger hops (2) ½ oz Northdown hops (3)...