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You can reuse yeast. There are two ways to do this. One is better that the other. 1.) (the poorer method) You can collect the yeast trub in a sterile jar after racking your beer out of your primary fermentation vessel, then mix in some sterile water shake, then leave to settle. It settles into...

Also after conditioning (at fermentation temperature) real ale should never be stored below 8 Celsius. It should be stored a 13 Celsius ideally. Below 8 Celsius you will always get chill haze unless you filter your ale (which damages the flavour).

If you want clear beer you will want to cool your wort fast after the boil. It is worth buying either a chiller-coil or a plate chiller to achieve this. They are fairly cheap these days (especially if you think of the money you will save brewing your own beer). Adding Irish moss about 10...

You could vary the temperature a little by positioning different fermenting products at different heights in your fermenting cupboard or room. Near the top will be warmer than on the floor.

18 Celsius is a bit on the cold side for ale yeasts. Most microbreweries will ferment at around 22-23 Celsius. 18 Celsius may result in a stuck fermentation as the yeast will be liable to become dormant too soon. For a good fermentation you would generally want to have you ale fermenting...

Brewed an all-grain 4% bitter. Brewing and fermentation went as planned. (All digitally timed and and temperature checked) (Water was filtered) Beer was racked to 3x pressure barrels and primed. Delicious with awesome aroma from barrel 1 at 9days conditioning (this 5 gallons of beer was...

Another quick tip. Don't use islinglass finnings for bottle conditioned ale as they prevent the yeast sediment from settling into a firm and compact bed.

Finnings won't kill the yeast, but if your not selling it they aren't really necessary. Clarity is more an aesthetic issue. If it tastes great then no need to worry. Time alone will often allow the beer to clear more of course. If you desire crystal clear finnings are needed though. I...

Also using dried yeast tends to be more successful when requiring a tight sediment bed in bottle conditioned beer.

Hi, Your problem was actually covered on a brewing course I went on. It's is fine to bottle condition your beer, there is a healthy market for this. Your problem with the sediment is actually caused by the isinglass. Isinglass is used for cask ale to allow quick settling after transit, it...

I pretty much filled all three barrels.

Hi, I brewed a best bitter of about 4%abv (all grain). It spent 12 days in the primary at 22 Celsius, and was then racked into 3x 5 gallon pressure barrels with about 80g of brewing sugar added to each (in filtered and boiled water). The beer was left to condition at 22 Celsius in the...

Thanks, but I don't think it's the VWP steriliser. I used that last time and had no problem.

Thanks. I'll post an update next time I sample my brew.

Thanks for the information, but what was the result, did your brew turn out okay in the end?

Thank you for those thoughts. They give a little hope for this beer. Fingers crossed!

Thank you :D

Thanks for the tip. I will have a look at that site.

Thank you :D

I just read that apparently it is important not to cover the boil kettle during the boil, as the wort need to boil off certain chemicals. Unfortunately I had the lid nearly full on my boil pot (about a one inch gap at most). Could this be the cause of the problem? Has anyone else heard of...