Homebrew has defeated me :(

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Shaun-p

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I have tried a couple of kits now. I have the gear, and I follow the instructions, but it just doesn't seem to work. My first kit was a real ale, and I think the only reason I found it drinkable was that it was A) a real ale, and B) my expectations were so low. The second was similar but with slightly higher expectations. Then I tried a couple of IPA kits. They hang around 1.020 whatever I do to them. It's been a couple of weeks now, what do I do with it? It's all going on ebay otherwise.
 
Last edited:
What do you mean by "hang around 20"? The fermentation temp? Describe your process. Explain why you're disappointed. What do you think "isn't working "?
 
Clint said:
What do you mean by "hang around 20"? The fermentation temp? Describe your process. Explain why you're disappointed. What do you think "isn't working "?
Click to expand...
The gravity hangs around 1.020? It should go down to 1.006.

I follow the instructions on the box and google when things don't work. I don't honestly know what part isn't working and what more I could do to remedy it. It is on a thermostat-controlled heating pad, I rehydrated the yeast, it was bottled water.
 
Shaun-p said:
The gravity hangs around 0.020? It should go down to 0.002.

I follow the instructions on the box and google when things don't work. I don't honestly know what part isn't working and what more I could do to remedy it. It is on a thermostat-controlled heating pad, I rehydrated the yeast, it was bottled water.
Click to expand...
Those gravities don't make sense. The specific gravity of water is 1.000. Beer wort will start well above that and usually won't fall much below 1.010.
 
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Shaun-p said:
The gravity hangs around 1.020? It should go down to 1.006.

I follow the instructions on the box and google when things don't work. I don't honestly know what part isn't working and what more I could do to remedy it. It is on a thermostat-controlled heating pad, I rehydrated the yeast, it was bottled water.
Click to expand...
If you're rehydrating dried yeast (which shouldn't really be necessary) it's best to use some of the wort, cooled. But it's best to keep any handling of the yeast to a minimum and just pitch on the cooled wort.

How do you control the temperature of the heat pad? You say 'thermostat', but what's that measuring against?
 
Larse said:
If you're rehydrating dried yeast (which shouldn't really be necessary) it's best to use some of the wort, cooled. But it's best to keep any handling of the yeast to a minimum and just pitch on the cooled wort.

How do you control the temperature of the heat pad? You say 'thermostat', but what's that measuring against?
Click to expand...
I did the yeast that came with the kit when I started it. After a week with no movement, I sent off for a Verdant IPA yeast and still nothing. The heater pad has a probe which is stuck to the side of my vessel.
 
Shaun-p said:
I did the yeast that came with the kit when I started it. After a week with no movement, I sent off for a Verdant IPA yeast and still nothing. The heater pad has a probe which is stuck to the side of my vessel.
Click to expand...
When your gravity drops such that there are less fermentable sugars in the wort, a newly pitched yeast will likely have very little effect. You'd need to start it first with some DME to get the cell count up and a head start so that it has enough volume to finish out the fermentation.

Edit: To echo what others have asked on your other thread, how are you measuring your gravity?
 
Out of interest what are you measuring your gravity with? When I first started I didn’t realise a refractometer doesn’t read final gravities correctly.
 
These are teething troubles.
The kits are OK, some better than others, but your skill will make the difference.

Don't give up.

I know it can be a pita answering all the questions, but the secret is in the detail. Did it taste a sweet at 20?
 
Larse said:
When your gravity drops such that there are less fermentable sugars in the wort, a newly pitched yeast will likely have very little effect. You'd need to start it first with some DME to get the cell count up and a head start so that it has enough volume to finish out the fermentation.

Edit: To echo what others have asked on your other thread, how are you measuring your gravity?
Click to expand...
A hydrometer
 
Shaun-p said:
A hydrometer
Click to expand...
Assuming your hydrometer is properly calibrated (you can do this by putting it in 20° water - it should read 1.000) then your fermentation has stalled. This could be a yeast problem - there are some threads here from people having issues with MJ yeasts - so maybe get another yeast (some here recommend Nottingham), make a starter (200g DME and 2L of water) if you don't have a stir plate, just get it oxygenated with some vigorous stirring at the beginning and keep covered at about 21° until you see it develop a good frothy head and pitch it in your beer.
 
I asked on your other thread but might be better to keep it here...
Are you insulating your fermentation bucket? How warm is the water you are mixing your kit with? How warm is the room/shed you are keeping your fermentation bucket day and night?
 
Clint said:
I asked on your other thread but might be better to keep it here...
Are you insulating your fermentation bucket? How warm is the water you are mixing your kit with? How warm is the room/shed you are keeping your fermentation bucket day and night?
Click to expand...
It has a heater pad set to about 20. It is indoors with a blanket over it. It's not the warmest room but that's what the pad is for. The pad has a probe which is attached halfway up the vessel.
 
Shaun-p said:
It has a heater pad set to about 20. It is indoors with a blanket over it. It's not the warmest room but that's what the pad is for. The pad has a probe which is attached halfway up the vessel.
Click to expand...
So long as the probe is insulated from the outside air, that should be fine. Those heat mats usually have +/-1° variance, so they can go up to 21° or down to 19°. That shouldn't be a problem unless the fermentation itself gets the temp up further. You didn't say what the original gravity was. That can have a bearing on the FG.
 
Is the water out of your tap drinkable? Hard or soft? Do you get a furry kettle?

Let's have a postcode for shop or business near you and we can check your water.
 

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