Am I missing something?

I am brewing from kits but I don't think I'm having much luck. My first was a real ale and looked and smelled like a real ale. The second was tainted as some dirt got into it. Third was an IPA from a kit, but in all honestly looked and smelled like the real ale. It tasted a wee bit funky (though with beer it's all relative). My current one is "Muntons Gold 40 Pint Beer Kit - India Pale Ale". It has been a couple of weeks and is stuck around 1.016 and won't go under 1.014 (or whatever). I tasted it and it looks and smells like the other two. I know homebrew is just variations of alcoholic brown water but I thought there should be more variations. This one didn't have any hops, just the malt and yeast.

My questions.

1. I have a plastic barrel and it has NEVER done the bubbling airlock thing. The gravity does change over time so I guess that's not a problem.
2. Is it just ordinary tap water? Boiled for the malt and cold for the rest.
3. It is in the coldest part of the house but I have a heated belt on it to keep the temp constant.
4. It is not in a cupboard but in a corner of the room out of any sunlight. It is not covered or in the dark.
5. Should I just bottle it after 3 weeks and see what happens? By this point I am not sure what it should taste like.

Any thoughts?

1. Gas is getting out somewhere else. Prolly not quite tight enough.

2.depends on your water (share a postcode of your local shop/business)

3. Constantly what temp?

4. Ditto

5. Yes.

MashBag said:

1. Gas is getting out somewhere else. Prolly not quite tight enough.

2.depends on your water (share a postcode of your local shop/business)

3. Constantly what temp?

4. Ditto

5. Yes.

Click to expand...

I'm in East Sussex so it is very chalky. The thermometer says about 22.

Do us a postcode. East Sussex is a big place.

22c is plenty really for an ale. 20 would be better. But most important is steady. Its there any controller?

To answer your question, No it isn't just tap water.

Treating your tap water will make big a difference.

Presumably your supply is Southern water?

@peebee this sounds like one for the defuddler.

MashBag said:

Do us a postcode. East Sussex is a big place.

22c is plenty really for an ale. 20 would be better. But most important is steady. Its there any controller?

Click to expand...

It’s just one of those belts that wrap around it. I kept it at the top to use it to minimum effect.

MashBag said:

Do us a postcode. East Sussex is a big place.

22c is plenty really for an ale. 20 would be better. But most important is steady. Its there any controller?

Click to expand...

Postcode is bn3. Southern water say

Your water is rated as Hard​

105.2 Cal mg/l

A good start would be to treat your water with a Campden Tablet - this gets rid of the chlorine and chloramine.
Also, try wrapping the closed rim if your fermenter with clingfilm - this'll prevent any leaks & force any gas through the bubbler so it'll be easier to tell it's fermenting

Shaun-p said:

. I know homebrew is just variations of alcoholic brown water but I thought there should be more variations.

Click to expand...

Not quite sure what it is that you profess to know or what it is you were hoping for. More variations on "alcoholic brown water"?
Home brewed beer should be at least as good as commercial beer, often better. So give us a clear example of what you're trying to achieve and we'll advise you how to get there.

While hard water isn't ideal for some styles, it shouldn't be a problem when doing kits as the grain has already been mashed under ideal conditions.

Also there are plenty of decent beers brewed in hard water areas, you just make suitable regional beers.
Dont try to copy Burton on Trent or Irish stout styles.
Think Shepard-Neame or Harvey's. Even London style porters & bitters should work for you.

I used to live in Brighton many years ago and I remember the water had a lot of chlorine in it. Might be worth trying that Pure Brew stuff or Campden tablet as suggested.

Easy water fix, buy Tesco Ashbeck. It's £1.50 for 5 litres.

Otherwise, it'll have a horrible twang.

Shaun-p said:

I am brewing from kits but I don't think I'm having much luck. My first was a real ale and looked and smelled like a real ale. The second was tainted as some dirt got into it. Third was an IPA from a kit, but in all honestly looked and smelled like the real ale. It tasted a wee bit funky (though with beer it's all relative). My current one is "Muntons Gold 40 Pint Beer Kit - India Pale Ale". It has been a couple of weeks and is stuck around 1.016 and won't go under 1.014 (or whatever). I tasted it and it looks and smells like the other two. I know homebrew is just variations of alcoholic brown water but I thought there should be more variations. This one didn't have any hops, just the malt and yeast.

My questions.

1. I have a plastic barrel and it has NEVER done the bubbling airlock thing. The gravity does change over time so I guess that's not a problem.
2. Is it just ordinary tap water? Boiled for the malt and cold for the rest.
3. It is in the coldest part of the house but I have a heated belt on it to keep the temp constant.
4. It is not in a cupboard but in a corner of the room out of any sunlight. It is not covered or in the dark.
5. Should I just bottle it after 3 weeks and see what happens? By this point I am not sure what it should taste like.

Any thoughts?

Click to expand...

That's pretty much me, symptom wise... my IPA tasted the same as my pale too. The only really good one I've had is a cream Stout.

1. Re gas. I know it's happening but for newbie, it's a confidence thing seeing the Gas coming from the airlock. It's an indicator that things are going well. I've used PTFE round the airlock. Defo worked.

2. I use cold water from the tap. A lot here use bottled water which makes sense re chlorine. Im doing this for the next brew.... Lidl seems the best place to buy. However and I found this to be a biggy. When I add cold water to make 23L it very frothy, Ive then been adding my yeast, well it sits on the top of the froth and doesn't enter the water. This brew I've been back in after a few hour and mixed it in.

3. Keeping a constant temp is an issue in the UK. I've bought a heat pad. Seems to have worked this time.

5.Lack of that Hoppy taste. I followed instruction BUT didn't realise that the Hops flavour vanishes if left in too long. The instruction say 5 days but on here people say 3. In my case , and because my brewing temp was about 21, I had to leave it longer, so my hops were in about 7 days. I'm literally waiting for the local brew shop open and I'm off to buy some more.
I do think the hops in the kits are just enough to give a base..... more need for a hoppy taste.

MashBag said:

Do us a postcode. East Sussex is a big place.

22c is plenty really for an ale. 20 would be better. But most important is steady. Its there any controller?

Click to expand...

Jumping as same issues
So constant is the key? My temp (pre pad on my current brew) was up and down like a yoyo from day to night. If at 20 I assume it takes longer in the FV?

Gaz_h said:

Jumping as same issues
So constant is the key? My temp (pre pad on my current brew) was up and down like a yoyo from day to night. If at 20 I assume it takes longer in the FV?

Click to expand...

Absolutely. Stop the yoyo

Buy an inkbird to control the heat pad. And chuck a sleeping bag or quilt on the brew.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/14450217...JqzRlhvQpi&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

MashBag said:

Absolutely. Stop the yoyo

Buy an inkbird to control the heat pad. And chuck a sleeping bag or quilt on the brew.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/14450217...JqzRlhvQpi&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Click to expand...

Thanks..... so how does that work then? Is the prob a thermometer...and then it just switches the pad or belt on or off. Where does the prob sit?

Yup. Simple as that... with a 0.3°c accuracy.

Sticky tape the probe to the side of the fermenter.

Gaz_h said:

Thanks..... so how does that work then? Is the prob a thermometer...and then it just switches the pad or belt on or off. Where does the prob sit?

Click to expand...

I use the inkbird, the temp prob I duck tape to the side of my fermentation bucket about 1/4-1/3 up(about mid brew volume?) and have a heat pad plugged into the heat aide on the controlled extension cord/sockets, usually set it to 19° to stop it crashing on cold nights and loosely wrap a towel or fleece blanket around it.

Stu said:

Easy water fix, buy Tesco Ashbeck. It's £1.50 for 5 litres.

Otherwise, it'll have a horrible twang.

Click to expand...

I never thought of that

I just use the house central heating which is usually set to 18/19c because i'm a cheapskate/we are electric only.

But I will admit my summer brews are not as good as the rest of the year due to higher temperatures.