How do I close these pipe clips

Hi all, I just received a Kegland gas diffuser with 2 pipe clips in the kit.

Has anyone used these before? If so how do I clamp them on the pipe?

Are they single use?

Thanks.

It's called an "ear clamp" and you need a pair of ear clamp pliers to crimp it. I suspect it's more sanitary than a jubilee clip and possibly more easily available in stainless, hence its inclusion with the kit.

Needless to say, it's a pain in the bum if you don't have the requisite tool.

ETA : they are indeed single use

Thank you for the explanation tigertim,much appreciated. I'll probably have a look for something else to use instead.

I've never used a carbonation stone before but I wonder if it's possible to forget using a pipe crimp altogether and just slowly creep up on your target pressure to stop it blowing off the end of the pipe? It's probably what I would do, but then it'd be down to me to deal with the disappointment of a carbonation stone lying in the bottom of my keg

I use carpenter pliers

Draper 32732 Ball and Claw Carpenters Pincer, 175mm , Blue https://amzn.eu/d/iOikzpk

tigertim said:

I've never used a carbonation stone before but I wonder if it's possible to forget using a pipe crimp altogether and just slowly creep up on your target pressure to stop it blowing off the end of the pipe? It's probably what I would do, but then it'd be down to me to deal with the disappointment of a carbonation stone lying in the bottom of my keg

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I would not use them either, easier to clean.

Tbh yeast have managed for thousands of years without having air blown up their chuff

Fuel pipe clips

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225342850017?var=524331237988&itmmeta=01J0KKR7HK47G1DB8TEAE475AC&hash=item34777b03e1:g:6w0AAOSwy0BjvWCP&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA0DflLys2nqbu2S/uWCd0mhSFf2tb7qJrdctDVACzYdsCl6LTKh5xEEbushvrxkQBDhZ6UtkSjmfpEwlK7Grc1VfFfA3lbVjpGH/zh+u3uNJLpEl/ZAnwEkQG0fGAkFpRieTFY5C65+4LbzTqjqWp/b30aOe2TY55nTy80C09A5IY1Xqiq6KfiIUJeABqPsF7rhXkvVG/ZtDwM4DC0sybyT6pt/w7QheQFry6PWg+hvdbQnpcBEhqC/l5SnMcbevGILdTWXV407hO+7k6Bd5lUv8=|tkp:BlBMUPD44POEZA

These are brilliant, super hygienic and reusable. Don't corrode like metal.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/27583975...JqzRlhvQpi&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

If you have a job that doesn't need doing these are ideal.

MashBag said:

I would not use them either, easier to clean.

Tbh yeast have managed for thousands of years without having air blown up their chuff

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I'm with MashBag more from the boffins that is not needed trying to make the hobby into too much of a science and try to make you feel inadequate as a brewer because they are always right.

Well this thread has moved on.

First thanks to everyone for posting.

Second, I am trying to force carbonate at around 15C (it's hot here and I have no room for a fridge). I am hoping it will get done quicker with the stone and I like the idea that small bubbles passing through the beer may be absorbed more easily.

Once carbonated I then bottle as I have no way of storing a corny keg anywhere cold. Also I tend to give away bottles to the locals who think ales are some weird way of Brits poisoning themselves, until they try it at least.

Okaaaay. That makes far more sense.

Force carb changes things. Again if the barb is a snug fit, I would not bother. Silicone hose is far more grippy than pvc ever was.

If you do decide it needs a clip, only use stainless or nylon.

Even if you can't get a low temp, after the gas 'in' lay the corny on it side, this gives a greater service area. Regas and repeat 3 times.

MashBag said:

Okaaaay. That makes far more sense.

Force carb changes things. Again if the barb is a snug fit, I would not bother. Silicone hose is far more grippy than pvc ever was.

If you do decide it needs a clip, only use stainless or nylon.

Even if you can't get a low temp, after the gas 'in' lay the corny on it side, this gives a greater service area. Regas and repeat 3 times.

Click to expand...

I have done that in the past. Left it a day at 15C then put it on its side and rolled it, leave and repeat. I was using 22psi.

I thought that the beer seemed quite harsh though, not over carbonated (probably a bit low) but a rough sort of taste/feel that I didn't get when using priming sugar (same kit both times).

So I plan to be pressure fermenting towards the end of the process (start 0 then main fermentation at 5psi leaving to get to 20 by the end and then transferring to the keg (remainder in bottles for comparison)where I hope that the diffuser will allow a rapid take up to about 30psi without agitating the keg (I also want to leave any sediment in the keg). I'd prefer to keep things cool (15C) as this means an easier bottling after.

Can I ask why not bottle priming, particularly if this is an ale?

MashBag said:

Can I ask why not bottle priming, particularly if this is an ale?

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My next beer will be an IPA or lager of some type (mexican or simply).

I have to keep the filled bottles at fermenting temperature for 2 weeks otherwise they turn quite vinegary. I do normally bottle ferment ales but again if I can reduce the amount of cooling I need by force fermenting then I'd like to try that. As my cooling system is home grown it is prone to either a pump going down after a year or more or fan burning out. When this happens I can get some very nasty surprises (as described above) if dealt with within a day.

I would also like to reduce the amount of sediment which should be possible in the keg using a float kit, without filtering. I really do think filtering changes the taste (done it once at 1micron and was not that impressed with what I was left with).

I currently use 4 peltier water coolers in series pumped back to a cool box. The cool box serves 2 radiators each with it's own pump in it's own insulated chamber (not fridge level insulation, much less) where I either main ferment or keep the beer while 2nd fermenting (or a keg)). All temperature control is done using 3 ink-bird controllers.

I am going to try a Kveik Simply pseudo Lager in a few weeks. I'll keep the temperature down to 30C to reduce the citric taste (not looking for an IPA at the end) and see if it is something I like the result of. I am worried about reports of the quick flocculation of Kveik once fermenting has finished leading to a poor bottle fermentation (again the forced carbonation route).

Any advice on chillers, cooling or anything else that would work to help brewing when ambient temperatures are going above 35C (45C in August) would be well received. All my equipment is in a small un-airconditioned room (too expensive to put it in and run 24/7)

A fridge is the most readily available solution. It offers chilling and good insulation right from the get-go and insulation is paramount, especially if you're in a warm climate. Setting the thermostat to maximum cooling and controlling the temperature using an inkbird controller is both easy to implement and reversible.

However, if you don't have the space or wish to keep your chilled water solution, many people on the forum (myself included) tend to use shelf coolers, commonly found behind the bar in pubs to chill the product and the fonts. There are generally plenty for sale on online auction sites - search for "Cornelius Maxi" and you'll see plenty of hits for Maxi 110, Maxi 210 and Maxi 310 (the first digit being the number of product chilling coils the device has in it. Also other manufacturers have equivalent devices, such as the one I have; "Welbilt Icecore 1".

I've actually removed all the product coils from mine, so it just maintains a 10 litre bath of chilled water which I pump and recirculate through my fermenter jacket.

I'm presuming the setup for keg dispense is the same in Spain and, if you have as many bars closing over there as we do in the UK, you'll likely find a fair number up for grabs at reasonable prices.

As they are compressor-based, they should also be cheaper to run than your Peltier setup because pelters are not known for their efficiency. They do make some noise though; not particularly excessive, but I wouldn't want to sleep in the same room as one!

Paulus said:

I have to keep the filled bottles at fermenting temperature for 2 weeks otherwise they turn quite vinegary.

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That's quite normal practice.

Paulus said:

I really do think filtering changes the taste

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Absolutely.
Try high flocculation yeast. That will stick quite well.

Paulus said:

Any advice on chillers, cooling or anything else that would work to help brewing

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Second vote for Fridges. Either to put the beer in or use with a big tub of water and a pond pump, to circ through a coil inkbird controlled. I built this last year and was very pleased.

Kviek is a good idea, but expect to have to experiment a little to get the flavours you want.

Google "swamp cooler"