Will a CO2 capsule actually carbonate the beer in a barrel?

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MikeBusby

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My latest batch has been conditioning in a plastic barrel in the shed for the last 2 weeks. I have read lots of posts about the likelihood of the CO2 escaping from these barrels. Sure enough, I tried the beer last night and, although it tastes great, it is flat. Is there any benefit of inserting a CO2 capsule in the appropriate place in the lid of the barrel in order to carbonate the beer, or will It just fill the void above the beer level to create pressure?
 
My latest batch has been conditioning in a plastic barrel in the shed for the last 2 weeks. I have read lots of posts about the likelihood of the CO2 escaping from these barrels. Sure enough, I tried the beer last night and, although it tastes great, it is flat. Is there any benefit of inserting a CO2 capsule in the appropriate place in the lid of the barrel in order to carbonate the beer, or will It just fill the void above the beer level to create pressure?
What sort of 'plastic barrel' is it? Is it designed to take pressure? Does it have an S30 pin valve?
lots of us use added CO2 to carbonate a beer but it needs about 10psi or more.
 
Hi Mike, did you add the priming sugar then put it in the shed if the shed is cold it won't prime, after adding priming sugar store it for 2 weeks at 18 to 20c then some were cool for 2 weeks to condition
Thanks. Yes, I did prime it with sugar, but I put it straight in the shed. I shall bring it in now. Will it still prime if I have already started drinking it? I can always adad a CO2 capsule if that would help?
 
Let the yeast work on the sugar to carb your beer. Save your bulbs until later. Remember to test the pressure after three or four days in the warm. If its still flat your PB is likely to be leaking from somewhere
 
Thanks. Yes, I did prime it with sugar, but I put it straight in the shed. I shall bring it in now. Will it still prime if I have already started drinking it? I can always adad a CO2 capsule if that would help?

I tested a bottle from a new batch a few weeks back and it was flat and very sugary so I knew it hadn't primed. I squeezed the air out, put the top back on and put a heater in the storage shed. Tried it on Thursday and it was nicely carbed.
 
Yes you can...providing,as said,your barrel is set up for it..I've just carbed a keg of bitter rather than adding sugar and waiting.

Since I haven't enough bottles for the lager and bitter I've got brewing I'm going to barrel the bitter,
I'm sure the barrel will leak pressure so I'll stick it straight in the shed, but will it be ok to inject some co2 every time i have a few pints or not work due to the pressure leaks ?


I'm sure i remember doing this years ago but I've been drunk a lot since 😁
 
My decision has been made for me. I brought the barrel inside in order to initiate the priming, and saw that there was a steady leak coming from the edge of the tap. So, not only would the barrel not retain any CO2, but I would not have had any beer left after a couple of days. As a result, I have decanted it out into bottles and they will be inside for the priming stage.
 
My decision has been made for me. I brought the barrel inside in order to initiate the priming, and saw that there was a steady leak coming from the edge of the tap. So, not only would the barrel not retain any CO2, but I would not have had any beer left after a couple of days. As a result, I have decanted it out into bottles and they will be inside for the priming stage.
Is the rubber washer inside or outside the barrel?
 
No it's correct. Just make sure it's in place and don't overtighten the nut inside.
 
No it's correct. Just make sure it's in place and don't overtighten the nut inside.
I can’t quite decide what to do about this barrel. If it is leaking from round the edge of the tap, is there anything I can do to fix this?
 
Is it a King Keg? Can you post a photo? Remove the tap and check the hole for any roughness or split. Smooth it with emery cloth or a fine file. Don't lube the washer. The nut should only be hand tight. I have fitted Schrader valves to my barrels. Before use, I fill with water and pressurise with a car tyre pump until the rubber relief lifts. This is the best way to find leaks.
 
Barrels are notoriously problematic, many of us have had issues over the years. It can probably be fixed, do a search on the forum lots of good advice, then fill it with water whilst testing it with a CO2 bulb to save losing beer.
 
I was wondering whether you could use one of the silicone sealant compounds such as 'Plumber's Gold'. My experience which relates more to DIY plumbing than plastic pressure barrels is that joints using conformal seals are quite unreliable if assembled dry. The use of a sealant in the vast majority of cases allows a 'fit & forget' approach. I guess it depends on the joint whether this is practical and also whether it can be ensured that the beer is not in direct contact withthe sealant.
Personally I use new (not refurbed) Cornelius kegs. These are pretty reliable as long as the large top O ring is lubed and replaced regularly. Eye wateringly expensive to get set up? yes certainly, but it's a one off spend. However I appreciate such an outlay is not always possible.
 
I was wondering whether you could use one of the silicone sealant compounds such as 'Plumber's Gold'. My experience which relates more to DIY plumbing than plastic pressure barrels is that joints using conformal seals are quite unreliable if assembled dry. The use of a sealant in the vast majority of cases allows a 'fit & forget' approach. I guess it depends on the joint whether this is practical and also whether it can be ensured that the beer is not in direct contact withthe sealant.
Personally I use new (not refurbed) Cornelius kegs. These are pretty reliable as long as the large top O ring is lubed and replaced regularly. Eye wateringly expensive to get set up? yes certainly, but it's a one off spend. However I appreciate such an outlay is not always possible.
Don’t disagree with any of that. However, as a pressure barrel user, IMO the biggest weakness is the cheap and nasty attempt at a pressure relief and none return valve. The 2 rubber bands used are a total pain. I’ve replaced mine with proper hardware.
 
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