Wherry... not sure if this is normal?

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sanch3z

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Hi guys,

Got a coopers starter kit and decided to start with Wherry as it sounded quite straightforward and gives good results which I figured was the key to my first brew... I started last night at around 8 and followed the instructions to the letter and 45mins later the lid was on and brewing. In bed last night I was having a read of this forum and someone mentioned it was best to not use the lid clips as it's good to let built up pressure vent so I came back downstairs at 12:30 and removed the clips. At this time 4.5hrs after putting the lid on I saw only a few small bubbles on the top however I could see flakes sinking to the bottom which was forming a thin clay type layer at the bottom. When I came down this morning I almost expected a volcano eruption to have happened but very little seems to be going on... I can see quite a few small bubbles clinging to the side of the FV and the sediment at the bottom, there is condensation on the lid so it's difficult to see what's going on but from the side it looks like there's little if no froth on the top. I'm not sure if i'm expecting too much as it's only been 10hrs but I figured the first three days were the most active? I've included a few images below to help show what i'm talking about. I'm more that happy to leave this for 14days in the FV and I will resist removing the lid but I'm after some reassurance that this is normal.

Thanks in anticipation guys.

I've got some pic links but it's not allowing me to add them so i'll put them in the next post
 
Hi Bob, thanks for the swift reply, wish my Wherry was as rapid as you ;) I'm more than happy to walk away and leave it for a couple of weeks and the required time in the bottles just unsure if this was normal. Here are some Pics:

Pic in the bucket straight after brew:
IMG_2142.jpg


Pic of bubbles on the side of the FV but nothing on the top:
IMG_2144.jpg


Pic of sediment on the bottom:
IMG_2145.jpg


Tiny outer rim of bubbles at the top:
IMG_2146.jpg


Temp gauge on the side showing the range:
IMG_2147.jpg
 
Its fine, mine started like that, give it another 12 - 24 hours and it will be smashing along nicely. You will get a bigger krausen that will slowly dissipate.

The key is patience :cheers:
 
Looks precisely like mine did. I also use the Coopers FV and keep the lid clips on. My wherry took several weeks to be right. Like a lot of kits, the timelines on the packaging are hopelessly optimistic. I'd aim for 8 weeks in the bottle before you canbe truly satisfied with it.
 
thanks guys... here's how it's looking @ 21hrs :thumb:

Will probably add a few more pics of progress along the way in case it helps someone in the future or if I have more newbie questions ;)

More than happy to give this the required time, my old man is a skeptic and isn't sure it will be any good so want to make sure it's perfect.

photo.jpg
 
so another 12hrs on and the bulk of the foam has settled down, it's got some dark areas to it and the beer has changed colour from a dark brown to a lighter beef stock/gravy colour. Another thing i've noticed is the layer of crud in the bottom is no more... Hoping this is all normal? Here is an updated image

photo2.jpg
 
yup it is looking like mine still, tested my G today and it is 1009 form a start of 1046, going to give it a couple more days and test again.

Keep waiting it will be worth it :cheers:
 
Figure I'll test my g in a few days, figure there's no rush... Guess I need to start thinking about the prep of my pet bottles? Assume as they're new I'll only need to rinse them first in warm water? If it is however best to sterilise them what's the best method? Also how are you meant to get all the beer out of the fv into the bottles as the tap is about 3" up from the bottom! Are you meant to leave this or tilt the fv to get the dregs out???

Sooooo many questions
 
mmm, gravy.

now i'm hungry.

damn.

give them a sterilise, just make up a bucket of solution and dip them in. non rinse sanitizers are good for this.

you don't use a tap to transfer, use a syphon tube from the top to prevent oxidizing. :cheers:
 
I was going to use the tap adaptor thing that the bottom of the bottle presses against to start/stop the flow of beer as the coopers kit came with that but what do you do about the final 3" below the tap level? Just tilt the fv?
 
sanch3z said:
Figure I'll test my g in a few days, figure there's no rush... Guess I need to start thinking about the prep of my pet bottles? Assume as they're new I'll only need to rinse them first in warm water? If it is however best to sterilise them what's the best method? Also how are you meant to get all the beer out of the fv into the bottles as the tap is about 3" up from the bottom! Are you meant to leave this or tilt the fv to get the dregs out???

Sooooo many questions

Just rinse them. As for getting the last few inches out, remember that some of that space will be occupied by the trub, which you certainly don't want to bottle. Get someone to help tilt the FV forward to get the last few bottles worth.
 
So I was given some vmp with my kit but reading on here it seems like using this product is risky and takes time... So was gonna get some none rinse star Stan but then people started talking about bottle trees. Do I need to get one of these? Is there another method people use to drain bottles? This tree seems like a good idea as by all accounts if you spray the tree, use a bottle sprayer and leave them to drain then there is no chance of contamination.

Will mean I will have to go out and spend another £40 on a tree, sprayer and chemicals :(
 
sanch3z said:
So I was given some vmp with my kit but reading on here it seems like using this product is risky and takes time... So was gonna get some none rinse star Stan but then people started talking about bottle trees. Do I need to get one of these? Is there another method people use to drain bottles? This tree seems like a good idea as by all accounts if you spray the tree, use a bottle sprayer and leave them to drain then there is no chance of contamination.

Will mean I will have to go out and spend another £40 on a tree, sprayer and chemicals :(


I make the VWP solution up in a clean washing up bowl and soak a few bottles at a time in there, then rinse them out under the cold tap. I sanitise the draining board and rest them upside down on there. Once I have a few done I stack them upright and put a sheet of clingfilm over the top.

Has done me fine for now, I think I will invest in a spare Wilkos FV to use like a large bucket to soak the bottles in, should speed it up a bit.

To get the last few bottles out I rest the back feet of the FV on a couple of books to get it to tilt a bit.

:cheers:
 
it's funny was only this morning saying to my wife what an addictive thing this is and most of that is down to the community and support from places like this. Other subjects seem to suffer from jokers keen to make ppl feel stupid, this on the other hand offers practical tips and hand holding which for the newbie is priceless so thanks everyone for the support, pics and quick advice. Think i'm going to look at fashioning some sort of dryer as I quite like little projects like that ;)

Think the spray bottle is a good idea and will save me a packet, almost enough for my next kit...

How do ppl deal with cleaning screw lids with star san? Is it just a case of spraying and leaving them the right way up to dry? Guess it's ok if the outer ring sits on a kitchen surface as this will never come into contact with anything?
 
sanch3z said:
it's funny was only this morning saying to my wife what an addictive thing this is and most of that is down to the community and support from places like this. Other subjects seem to suffer from jokers keen to make ppl feel stupid, this on the other hand offers practical tips and hand holding which for the newbie is priceless so thanks everyone for the support, pics and quick advice. Think i'm going to look at fashioning some sort of dryer as I quite like little projects like that ;)

Think the spray bottle is a good idea and will save me a packet, almost enough for my next kit...

How do ppl deal with cleaning screw lids with star san? Is it just a case of spraying and leaving them the right way up to dry? Guess it's ok if the outer ring sits on a kitchen surface as this will never come into contact with anything?
dunk em all into a cerial bowl whatever full of star san pull out of solution use wet
:thumb:
 
so just under 3 days in, looks like the bulk of the bubbles have stopped and the foam has dropped back, tested it and it's reading 1011 down from 1042, guess it's on course? Perhaps another couple of days and it will drop further. Only really tested it to make sure it wasn't stuck at the dreaded 1020...
 
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