What piece of equipment has become invaluable that you wouldn’t expect?

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Now, I just need a thermal valve? to switch the coolant to circulate and cool the F/V.

Anyone know of such a product?:?:
Wouldn't a thermostat turning the circulation pump on and off be enough? Or you could use a central heating valve if you want it to circulate elsewhere most of the time, and just a normal return Tee on the other side.

You are basically making a central heating system - in reverse.
 
No. The lid I use is curved. That's sort of a good thing because it means you've got the surface area underneath easily reached so you're doubling the available area. The completely flat crappy dish still worked, though.

I also use a standard wok on it which is really curved and I get crazy heat out of it, real wok-hei. You can see a ring where it heats up most and because of the curve that's over half a centimetre from the surface. Even on 2000 watts it's crazy hotter than on the big cooker gas ring full blast. The char I get on noodles and onions makes it taste exactly like the take-away and meat is like it's been barbequed. I do this in the shed so I don't stink the house out.

2000w powerful enough then? What model of induction hob do you have? Seems to be plenty of cheap 2kw models out there.
 
I joked about revolutionising the world of brewing about a month ago but was too lazy to tell the world.

@Spinningwoman Just tested the metal lid inside and aluminium pan and it doesn't work, also tried one of the crappy lids inside a steel pot that's not ferromagnetic and that also didn't work. Both give E0 unsupported cookware errors. I'm not saying it's out of the question because a lot of cookware has an embedded plate of inductive metal in the base.
Thanks for trying that out! This is still a fascinating idea though. You need to call it the Drunkula Method and get a Kindle book and some youtubes out!
 
Blichman beergun and SS Brewtech Brewbucket have together improved my brewing tenfold
 
So does this stand up in ur bucket and the whole syphon go in?
You have to hold it against the side of the bucket for a short while then you can gently let it rest on the bottom when the level drops, the good thing is that there’s so much surface area it doesn’t clog up and you get a super clear transfer.
 
This:
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This stainless frying pan lid is the perfect size for a fermenter and is now the heater for my mash and boil using the induction hob.View attachment 22894
I'm guessing that's allowed.
That, is absolutely genius!!! I have an induction job but never would have thought to do this!!!

I could start off some water in a fermenter while the strike is coming up to temperature then transfer into the 70l kettle in the garage so it doesnt have to heat from cold.

I usually have to mash for 90 minutes as I'm getting 50 odd litres of water up to temperature.
 
Can u send a link for this please. Itl save me going into marks spenser asking for womens tights as a necessity
I used my biab in the end. Found it pretty easy. Just hope my bag was clean when i dunked it in
 
A cheap wilko baster for taking gravity samples and starting the siphon
I like both those ideas, especially when I thought I was buying an auto syphon, turned out to be a rigid plastic dip tube with a length of rubber hose
 
I like both those ideas, especially when I thought I was buying an auto syphon, turned out to be a rigid plastic dip tube with a length of rubber hose
It works well for me. Just remember to sanitise it first and squeeze it before you attach the siphon tube otherwise you will blow air back into the fermented wort
 
actually, the best piece of kit that has been invaluable to me is the flask and magnetic stirrer. i can't make effective starters without them since i switched to using live yeasts about 9 months ago.
 
A little bottler and a bucket clip make bottling a little more bearable, i don't have a tap on my FV so use the little bottler tube in the end of my syphon tube. (see video)




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