Using GW Recipe with new electric 25L mashing bin.

[Bertie Doe]

Help please, I'm trying Graham Wheelers Ringwood Old Thumper recipe in a new 25L mashing bin. Aiming for 19 litres, he gives 4764g total grain bill, with a target OG of 1056 for 5.7% ABV.

It's the liquor amounts that's confusing the brain box. He quotes Total Liquor of 28.1 litres and Mash Liquor of 11.8 litres. Ok subtract the 2 figs and you get 16.3. Am I correct in saying, you put 11.8l into the bin and sparge with 16.3 litres?

Is 11.8 litres sufficient? I'm a bit worried that there may not be enough space between the bottom of the grain bag and the surface of the (exposed) electric element, during the 90min mash period, when the element will be cycling? TIA.

 

[oz11]

You'd be better off insulating your mash vessel to keep the temperature steady, rather than applying heat during the mash. Duvets, blankets, towels, etc can all be pressed into service. Top, bottom and sides should all be covered. If you lose more than a couple of degrees over 60-90mins you need more insulation.

 

[Bertie Doe]

Thanks Oz, I'll try that tomorrow. I have one more question regarding sparging. Towards the end of the sparge, Graham Wheeler suggests tasting the wort, to detect any remaining sugar.

I don't trust my tastebuds to be honest. In fact I've been a litre or two short of target in the past. Is there another method of testing for residual sugars in the sparge run-off?

Can a hydrometer be used? If yes, what's the cut-off gravity? GW's temp correction chart stops at 49C. I guess the sparge flow will be 60+.

 

[joe1002]

Yes, you should stop sparging at 1.008 (temp corrected obviously, which would be about 0.992 at 60c).

That's what I do anyhow, and I use the forum calculator to know if or when I get to 1.008 :thumb:

 

[Bertie Doe]

Thanks Jo, duly noted, I'd forgotten about the forum calculator

Everything's getting sterilised at the moment, so fingers' crossed.

 

[Bertie Doe]

Update: Realised I was getting low on stock, so decided to go for 2 of G.Wheeler's 19L recipes; Moorhouses, Pendle Witches Brew and Ringwood Old Thumper. For no good reason, I used Safale 04 on the first and Mauribrew in the 2nd. There was a 6 hour time interval between the 2 spargings, but late Friday evening, I had 2 batches cooling in the fermenters.

Early Saturday morning I introduced the yeast. I fit bubble locks for the first 24 hours and these were both active by the evening. Sunday morning both airlocks were working overtime and there's a nice 'head' on the 2 brews.

Stuck: Sunday evening the ROT/Mauribrew batch had stuck. No foam and bubbles stopped. Attached beater to electric drill and beat for a full 5 mins. This morning, it's still dead. Introduced a sachet of (time expired) Dry Beer Enzyme. Haven't used this stuff before but it states that it's for "stuck ferments and over sweet beer".

If the DBE doesn't work, ideas anyone? Can I add some Safale 04 as I've run out of Mauribrew? BTW the Pendle Witch is still going nicely.

 

[PD]

quote.....
Attached beater to electric drill and beat for a full 5 mins.

thats a big big :nono: :nono: :nono: :nono: after the yeast has been working. You will add too much oxygen into the beer and may cause it to oxidise and taste bad.
Beat it to death by all means after the boil to add oxygen (thats boiled off during the boil ) and before yeast added.

What temperature did you ferment at ? If it was at a high temp at this time of year that there is a possiblity that the initial vigorous fermentation has already finished
Again to the detriment of the beer.

Ferment at 20C or preferably a few degrees cooler and give it TIME.

Have you used a hydrometer you need an SG reading just before yeast added and then you can check on the rate of fermentation and when its finished.

 

[Bertie Doe]

Thanks Piddledribble, I can confirm that the present room temperature is 23C. This is also the water temp from the cold tap, so nothing to be gained from standing the fermenters in the bath.

Prior to pitching, the OG was 1058. The stuck gravity is 1035. If there's no activity by morning, I'll add a sachet of Safale 04.

 

[Bertie Doe]

Thanks Piddledribble, I can confirm that the present room temperature is 23C.

Update: Success, the dry beer enzyme has done the trick and the trap is bubbling vigorously. Room temp (East facing) has now risen to 25C, even with curtains drawn.

It's a steep learning curve. These 2 batches were my first attempt using an electric mashing bin. As per advice, I swathed it in insulation for the mash and (more or less) achieved the target OG in the recipe.

The recipe was 19L and I only got 17L. My fault, I stopped sparging when the gravity was a lot higher than 1008 It tasted like water, so I was convinced it was water.
If I'd achieved 19L then I guess the OG's would be down? Thanks all for the tips and fingers crossed when it comes to sampling in 10 weeks.

 

[fisherman]

Regarding sparging I use a refractometer bought from china through e-bay and have had no problems with over sparging since. I would not be without one. It cost £18 inc postage and arrived within 5 days, Mine is calibrated in brix and og.
happy brewing

 

[Bertie Doe]

Thanks fisherman, I haven't heard of these before. Looked on ebay as you suggest, couple of questions please.

Some are calibrated 0 - 32 Brix, others 0 - 80 Brix?

Can you take wort readings at say 65C and is a temperature conversion chart supplied/or necessary?

At what reading do you normally stop the sparge?

Thanks.