Time between boiling/cooling and pitching

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EasyDean

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Ashford, Kent
Hi All

I'm about to do my first AG brew, but I've just realised that the water pressure in my new shop is too low (I think) to run anything decent through the wort chiller.

My plan then is to do the main preparation at my home (mashing and boiling), and then the next morning take the 23 litres of 'pre-yeast-brew' to my shop and add the yeast there etc.

Is this idea OK ? or do you have to pitch the yeast into the brew soon after the brew is ready ?

Many thanks

Dean
 
some people let it cool overnight so the wait won't be too great. Just innoculate with a lot of yeast to reduce lag as you already have the beer waiting around 12 hr.

Can you not make a starter and innoculate once cooled then take it back to work the next day?

Do not envy you transporting 23l of liquid.

or do it at work and if the pressure is too low let natural cooling take place.
 
I haven`t a wort chiller as yet - on my first two AG brews just tipped my 23litres between two FV and left them to cool in the garden - at around 12 degrees c air temp - and kept pouring from FV to FV untill it had cooled enough to pitch my yeast starter - it took around three hours and the starter ensured a quick start to the ferment - as yet no problem but a wort chiller will be a must for me as summer approachs next year, and a fermenting fridge and a bigger boiler etc etc etc etc ......... :whistle:
 
The slow flow of coolant will really help cool the wort effectively . . . as the wort cools, I find that I have to keep slowing the flow down to get effective cooling from my IC
 
+1 for Aleman.

Cooling depends on flow rate and surface area. The slower the flow rate (within reason), the greater the thermal transfer for the time. As long as you've got enough pressure to get the water through the coil you shouldn't have to worry.

As a side note, I think from memory that you should be able to get 1g/min from the first tap on the incoming mains water pipe, if not then contact your water company. Obviously this may be different for commercial premises.
 
I have noticed a lot of the Aussie brewers do 'no chill' using a 25L sealed water container, they fill it, squeeze it to get any air out and then screw the lid on and leave overnight or however long they want to until they require it. Those containers are also very easy to transport. They call them 'cubes' in Oz
Camping shops sell them, as well as other outlets.
Something like this
25%20l%20Cobtainer2%20(Medium).jpg
 
Hi all, and thanks for the advice - it's much appreciated

I did an experiment with the water that I do have running from my tap, and it seems it's enough to trickle out of the wort chiller when connected.

The flow rate out of the wort chiller looks like it'd take about 20 seconds to fill a 500ml beer bottle.

Do you think thats enough ?

If so, I'll go to B&Q and try and find a connector to hook it up properly.

Thanks in advance

Dean
 

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