Tea Urn gone wrong

[Lowcliff]

I decided to install a cooker rheostat to my tea urn after bridging out the 2 trips
(http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=74322) the same boiler as Alans in the link. But then I decided to wire the elements up directly to the rheostat but that's when the problems started ., no heat from the elements having looked at a mjkpancakes youtube video the elements are resistive elements. This means nothing to me could anyone give me a little bit of advice on wiring the elements up. Like an idiot, i also removed the rest of the wiring. So my options look like fitting a kettle element to the tea urn

 

[Dutto]

Sorry, but I can't help with your current predicament.

However, in the future I suggest that you photograph everything from every angle before you start! :thumb:

I have put quite a few electrical "things" back to normal using this system so I know that it works. :thumb:

I also have a Hall Light that only switches on when the Living Room Light is on, because I DIDN'T photograph the wires to the light fittings when I changed them!

 

[Lowcliff]

I know, it actually worked ok with the 2 trips bridged out. All i want to do is wire the rheostat direct to the elements.

 

[aamcle]

The best thing to do is dump ALL the controls for the urn, get a PID/PT100/SSR combo to run it and you wont look back, I think there is a How To on the forum.

DON'T use a Thermocouple they are very hard to calibrate use a PT100 everytime.

Good luck. aamcle

 

[Lowcliff]

That was my thoughts, i actually coupled direst to the elements and when powered up direct it took 15 mins just to get hot

 

[BeerCat]

I am no electronics wizz but surely you cannot add a pot directly to the elements. You need a circuit to reduce the flow through to it or would burn out or potentially electrocute you if it shorted. Get a PID as amcle said and you can reduce the voltage through that safely among other things. Best of luck. I have taken loads of stuff apart never to put it back together again.

 

[Lowcliff]

I will make a start after the first brew with the Ace, believe it or not, the wife bought me the ace in October 2016 for Christmas so its still brand new
aamcle. that is what I ended up with cables direct to the elements, in the end, 15 minutes to get warm-hot. I tested the elements with a meter Not to worry i,ll have another look
Beercat , the rheostat is an oven control so it should be up to it
Just wondering if the rheostat should be fitted after the elements, mjkpankake on his youtube video did call the elements resistive elements, I will have a look if all fails I will fit 2 kettle elements . I can,t go wrong with them

 

[BeerCat]

Would a photo of how mine is wired help at all? I have a feeling mjpancake has a different model to me but i could be wrong.

 

[foxbat]

I am no electronics wizz but surely you cannot add a pot directly to the elements. You need a circuit to reduce the flow through to it or would burn out or potentially electrocute you if it shorted. Get a PID as amcle said and you can reduce the voltage through that safely among other things. Best of luck. I have taken loads of stuff apart never to put it back together again.

You can if the rheostat is rated for the voltage and power and is encased in a safe housing. It is, however, a terrible idea because it'll burn off the power it doesn't feed to the element as heat making it hot and inefficient. It's such a bad idea that I'm not going to attempt to explain the correct wiring for such a device. A self-contained PID unit and an SSR for switching is a far, far better solution.