stuck at 1020

[Mac]

Don't know how i missed it but have gone to bottle a batch of muntons old conkerwood and realised it's still at 1020. It's been in a controlled dark environment at 19.5 degrees for three weeks (a converted fridge with an inkbird and a heat belt). Do i need to reboot somehow, apply some more yeast, CopperKettle are just down the road but he's closed today. Any pointers appreciated.

 

[Cwrw666]

I did one of those a few years ago before I switched to AG and I seem to remember I had the same problem. I think I tried all the tricks to get it down further, even using amylase enzyme, but never got it down further than 1016. In the end I gave up, bottled it and drank it. Not the best kit beer I ever made, in fact quite odd but not unpleasant taste to it.

 

[Dutto]

For any "stuck" brew there are as many opinions as Home Brewers (+1) on how to cure the problem.

For a "stuck" brew I regard it as being a "wort" and not a "beer" (that shouldn't be oxygenated):

• Open up the FV.
• Stir the brew with a sanitised paddle to rouse the yeast in the trub and aerate the wort.
• Add a teaspoonful of yeast nutrient.
• Sprinkle in a packet of Wilco Ale Yeast.
• Box up the FV.
• Increase the temperature in the Brew Fridge by a couple of degrees.
• Leave it for a week.

If, during the week:

• The the Blow-Off tube has shows signs of life and then stopped I check the SG again and bottle it if it is at the expected FG.
• There has been no signs of life then I leave it for a second week, check that the SG hasn't moved and store it in a keg with a Pressure Relief device on it rather than in bottles as a "Just in case!" measure.

 

[GerritT]

What @Dutto said, ánd: since the main fermentation has passed, all that is needed is something to chew down some remaining sugars. A champaign yeast (Lalvin has some) could do that, Mangrove Jack has some chewers too.
BUT it won't work if the main mash was around 68º or higher, because those sugars are nigh unfermentable.

 

[BeerCat]

I did one of those a few years ago before I switched to AG and I seem to remember I had the same problem. I think I tried all the tricks to get it down further, even using amylase enzyme, but never got it down further than 1016. In the end I gave up, bottled it and drank it. Not the best kit beer I ever made, in fact quite odd but not unpleasant taste to it.

Did you add the amylase on its own or with yeast? I had a beer stick at 1045 before.

 

[Cwrw666]

Did you add the amylase on its own or with yeast? I had a beer stick at 1045 before.

Just on its own. It supposedly helps if the problem is too many unfermentable sugars. I've used it a few times, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.

 

[Sandimas]

It's a Muntons kit and they are known for sticking. Despite knowing this, the same happened to me with Conkerwood.

Had a few stuck brews over the years and never managed to get them fully going again, maybe drop a few more points 1020-1014 or so: make up a sugar solution (150g or so dissolved in hot water) and pour in, give it a good stri, and move it to a warmer location 21/22C. The fermentables are almost spent so adding the sugar will give the yeast something extra to chew on and hopefully get going again.

 

[BeerCat]

Just on its own. It supposedly helps if the problem is too many unfermentable sugars. I've used it a few times, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.

I have just used some in a 1035 beer to take it down to 1000. Added to the fermentation though. Interesting stuff.

 

[Mac]

upped the temp by a couple of degrees and pitched some more yeast, has dropped some, just going to recheck then cold crash for bottling later in the week. Thanks to everyone for the tips and advice