Should I do what it says on the tin?

[Grunaki]

I know this usually isn't bad practice, but I'm not sure if these are 'the best' instructions..

I got a can kit - "Beer Makers Premium Australian Style Pilsner" - and it says to mix the can with water, sugar & yeast and leave for 5 to 7 days then sugar bottles and bottle the mix "once the specific gravity is below 1.008".

Sounds a bit fishy to me.. Every other kit I've done has said to leave it at least two weeks before bottling (including the cider one I'm doing right now, which was a can kit too, and is currently nice and foamy.. :) ) and I can't see it getting to 1.008 in that short of a time.

Bottling after a week would pretty much f-up my rotation, so I'm thinking of going for two.. Any reason not to?

Also, it says to stir the yeast in with this one, so I was actually thinking of brewing it up straight in a Carboy, as I'll have at least one spare and I don't want to occupy my last free primary fermenter with a mix that will sit there a fair while.

This kit also infers that you can drink it after about two weeks ("although the beer may be gassy at first, but will improve with age") so I'm guessing it's aimed at those with no patience.. But with a bit of TLC might make a decent brew.

(The kit itself was only $15 from Real Canadian Superstore - who are a regular supermarket like ASDA or Sainsbury's - and there was no tax, as the contents are considered bread-making ingredients, and apparently some foods are tax-free over here.. So SCORE! )

 

[winelight]

Tin instructions are always aimed at the impatient. Normally round here we add DME or beer enhancer and not sugar, and then ferment for 2 weeks, and then either move into the cold or rack into a secondary bucket for another week, and only then bottle. And then two weeks in the warm for carbonation, and another two weeks in the cold before drinking. Although leaving it a month or two is usually better.

Other enhancements are to change the yeast, add hop tea and also dry hop.

Stir the yeast or just tip on top, doesn't matter.

 

[joe1002]

Yep, those instructions are more than slightly on the optimistic side.

It sounds like you have your process sorted with your previous brews so stick with that :thumb:

 

[rpt]

Be guided by your hydrometer, not some arbitrary time period.

 

[winelight]

I think for practical reasons some people have to do their brewing at weekends so they're kind of forced to work in fixed weeks.

I do it because otherwise I'd be too impatient and obsessive about measuring the SG, I reckon it's better to leave it an extra few days than to keep fiddling with it and maybe thinking I "have" to bottle it when I simply don't have time. I just find it more relaxing this way!

 

[jonnymorris]

Stir the yeast or just tip on top, doesn't matter.

You should always re-hydrate dried yeast. Just tipping it on top will result in 50% of the yeast dying. This can lead to off flavors and mean you've underpitched which brings other concerns, not least being more chance of a stuck fermentation.

 

[rpt]

I think for practical reasons some people have to do their brewing at weekends so they're kind of forced to work in fixed weeks.

I do it because otherwise I'd be too impatient and obsessive about measuring the SG, I reckon it's better to leave it an extra few days than to keep fiddling with it and maybe thinking I "have" to bottle it when I simply don't have time. I just find it more relaxing this way!

Checking the gravity ensures you don't bottle too early. Once you have determined that fermentation has finished, you can leave it for several days before bottling. This is good for helping the yeast to clean up, and if you can also lower the temperature it's good for dropping out sediment.

 

[bottler]

Stir the yeast or just tip on top, doesn't matter.

You should always re-hydrate dried yeast. Just tipping it on top will result in 50% of the yeast dying. This can lead to off flavors and mean you've underpitched which brings other concerns, not least being more chance of a stuck fermentation.

Jonny, do you just stir the yeast in a glass of cold water, or hot water and let it sit for a while before adding to the fv to re-hydrate?

 

[jonnymorris]

Jonny, do you just stir the yeast in a glass of cold water, or hot water and let it sit for a while before adding to the fv to re-hydrate?

You need to re-hydrate in warm water for 15 mins before pitching into your brew. Temps vary between strains but you're aiming for around 30degC. Have a read of John Palmer or elsewhere on-line and you'll get the idea. Bottom line: don't sprinkle, re-hydrate.

 

[bottler]

Jonny, do you just stir the yeast in a glass of cold water, or hot water and let it sit for a while before adding to the fv to re-hydrate?

You need to re-hydrate in warm water for 15 mins before pitching into your brew. Temps vary between strains but you're aiming for around 30degC. Have a read of John Palmer or elsewhere on-line and you'll get the idea. Bottom line: don't sprinkle, re-hydrate.

Thanks jonny, very helpful :thumb:

 

[Grunaki]

Tin instructions are always aimed at the impatient. Normally round here we add DME or beer enhancer and not sugar, and then ferment for 2 weeks..

So how much malt extract would you substitute for 1kg of Dextrose in your primary brew?

(I'm assuming you still put sugar in the bottles for gas?)

 

[froidy]

I'm certainly no expert but I would say approx 1.2kg DME to substitute 1kg Dextrose I normally put 1kg DME and 200g Dextrose in my brews :)
I use normal sugar for carbonating or carbonation drops, I feel it's too little amount to worry about using Dex for priming, once again IMO