Recoiling an immersion chiller? Is it possible?

[Fil]

wrap dry tissue over the joints before joining up to the mains water supply and blocking the exit path, any leaks under the full pressure of the mains supply will become visualy evident as damp spots on the dry tissue.

compression joints are susceptible to rotation, I would be tempted to seal with solder but something like jbweld epoxy could also be used to fix the tubes/fittings in static place. Once confirmed leak free

 

[Steved53]

I would learn to solder if I were you!

Ideally you should have no joints that are in, or are above the wort. If you have to have a joint, much better to be a soldered one. A compression fitting might not leak today, when you test it, but a few weeks from now when you've manhandled it a few times, might be another story.

 

[Dutto]

I know nothing about this kind of thing, so please excuse my ignorance but why does it have a greater heat transfer surface if it's square. And if square chillers are better why arent all chillers square?

Sorry for tardy response! "Skegness + Summer + Visitors" is why! :whistle:

The reason all chillers aren't square is because of the cost of the elbows, plus it is easier to commercially form a round one.

However, looking at some of the "Look what I have built." on the Forum, plus my own efforts, I have no regrets! :lol: :lol: :lol:

The surface area is calculated as follows ...

... 3.142 (Pi) x diameter of tube x length of tube = surface area of tube

 

[chewie]

Well, here are my versions. I wish I'd fed a small diameter copper tube inside the the large one, but I couldn't work out how to terminate it,

The termination is actually pretty straight forward, the 15mm outer pipe would be connected to one end of a 15mm compression tee, the inner pipe (10mm) would be allowed to run straight on thru the tee. On this smaller end of the tee you would fit a 15x10mm reducing set to seal the joint from the 15mm, the reducing set would require some filing out with a rat tail file to allow the 10mm pipe to pass thru it, simply then cut it of 3 or 4 inches past the tee and fit whatever fittings you need. Cold water connection would be made onto the centre of the tee and should then flow down around the outside of the inner pipe and out the other end.

 

[Fil]

I am a little dubious about CFC's and plate chillers with respect to the cleaning requirements, even if they are more efficient. Maybe my concerns have no real foundation, but that is how I currently feel.

I shared your concerns, thats why i went the straight tube route, with a simple detachment of one end of the connecting silicone tubes you ahve a straight path a tube brush can pass though and the ability for a limited visual inspection.