Priming sugar questions.

[RexBanner]

Eyup all.
So last night i batch primed 23L of bitter while in the FV.
I used brewing sugar, however i spread sugar i to the batch and stirred it in. Rather than stiring it into water and pouring it in.

Should this still carbonate over the next few weeks?

 

[Razor]

If you've made sure the sugar is well mixed into the brew it should still carb up fine.


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[Personal91]

Eyup all.
So last night i batch primed 23L of bitter while in the FV.
I used brewing sugar, however i spread sugar i to the batch and stirred it in. Rather than stiring it into water and pouring it in.

Should this still carbonate over the next few weeks?

How much did you use out of interest ?

 

[Grizzly299]

i spread sugar i to the batch and stirred it in. Rather than stiring it into water and pouring it in.

Should this still carbonate over the next few weeks?

It should be fine , but be aware that your bottles might not carbonate evenly. Some might be a little more fizzy than others.

Another downside is that your chosen method requires more mixing, which can potentially add unwanted oxygen to the beer, as well as knocking some of the existing C02 out of solution. Priming sugar calcs are based on an assumed number of volumes of C02 already in the beer, so you may also end up with a lower level of carbonation than intended.

A better method would be to rack your beer from the fermentor onto the sugar solution, into a bottling bucket, taking care not to splash. Remember when making your sugar solution, boil and allow to cool before mixing it in.


There's nothing wrong with the way you did it, and your beer will likely be fine. You may find that you have problems with consistency, that's all.

 

[terrym]

If you packaged your beer soon after batch priming then it will be OK.
Your biggest problem imo is that you have probably stirred up the yeast at the bottom of the FV possibly undoing the last few days of settlement, and this will have carried over into your bottles/PB etc.

 

[RexBanner]

How much did you use out of interest ?

I used 102g of brewing sugar (used an online calculator. Still seems excesive mind

 

[Razor]

I used 102g of brewing sugar (used an online calculator. Still seems excesive mind

That's only about 4.5g/l seems fine to me.


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[Personal91]

I used 102g of brewing sugar (used an online calculator. Still seems excesive mind

On average 5g's of sugar per litre is what I would expect to hear so its about there

 

[RexBanner]

If you packaged your beer soon after batch priming then it will be OK.
Your biggest problem imo is that you have probably stirred up the yeast at the bottom of the FV possibly undoing the last few days of settlement, and this will have carried over into your bottles/PB etc.

To be honest every bottle looked ok except for the last 3, they looked extremely sedimenty (is that even a word?). The responses ive had give me some optomism though :)

 

[Personal91]

To be honest every bottle looked ok except for the last 3, they looked extremely sedimenty (is that even a word?). The responses ive had give me some optomism though :)

Next time use a bit of muslin cloth/bag to filter it, I haven't done this yet but plan to!

I was thinking about getting the white cloths that have the red edges and boiling them for about 10 mins ( to steralise and to remove and ink\dye that could bleed from the fabric) and then cover 1 end of the syphon so as to hold back the smeg!

 

[Razor]

Next time use a bit of muslin cloth/bag to filter it, I haven't done this yet but plan to!



I was thinking about getting the white cloths that have the red edges and boiling them for about 10 mins ( to steralise and to remove and ink\dye that could bleed from the fabric) and then cover 1 end of the syphon so as to hold back the smeg!

You definitely do not want smeg in your brew. :lol:


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[terrym]

Next time use a bit of muslin cloth/bag to filter it, I haven't done this yet but plan to!

I was thinking about getting the white cloths that have the red edges and boiling them for about 10 mins ( to steralise and to remove and ink\dye that could bleed from the fabric) and then cover 1 end of the syphon so as to hold back the smeg!

I wouldn't have thought muslin would be any good at filtering out yeast cells which individually are low micron size. The holes in muslin are relatively coarse, although you might be lucky and filter out a plug of yeast . Muslin is however good for retaining hop particles from disintegrated pellets.

 

[Grizzly299]

Skip the muslin. Just cold crash for 24hrs before bottling day, transfer from FV to bottling bucket and prime. A bottling bucket with a bottling wand attachment will make life 100% easier.

 

[Rockuronium]

Batch priming is inconsistent IMO, some gushers, some flat, some just right. I use a big syringe now, so each bottle gets exactly the correct amount, it doesn't take that long.


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[RexBanner]

I like the syringe idea.
One last thing if I may, heres a pic of a bottle held yp to the light after 24hrs. Is this just the natural setteling part of this? As their seems to be an "oil slick" as it where.