Possible HLT questions

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Virgilartois

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Hi again, I'm working on an AG setup and am trying different options for a HLT. I'd appreciate any input on this kludge!

First off, this is a Wilko "pressure" barrel with a hole cut in the top and a Morphy Richards kettle element installed where the tap was. Do you think this can be used to heat water for mashing or is this type of plastic not capable of withstanding heat?

P1020541.jpg


And, if so, what should I use to ensure the connections here don't melt?

P1020540.jpg


Thanks very much for any advice and/or comments!
 
That is the original kettle lead, I attached it to the posts the way BigYin did in his How To, but I've yet to solder or use anything else as I only wanted to quickly test it was working. I don't know whether heat shrink tubing or soldering or what will be the safest way... and definitely don't want to bother with the electrics until I'm sure the whole thing won't melt or that boiling water in that sort of plastic is safe.
 
I'm sure another member who is an electrician mentioned that the original kettle leads were no good. I think it went on the lines that for prolonged use ( a boil of 90 minutes) one of those hot leads would be more suitable, or changing the cable to one that would handle the power without melting it.
 
Most computer leads are only rated to 10A, so are unsuitable.

Frankly, the electrics there look terrifying. Solder is not the way to go, neither is heat shrink alone. You need to get the correct size crimps to fit the element terminals, and ideally heat shrink over the top of each once a connection is made. Also needs strain relief on the untrimmed flex to make it reasonably safe.

Please please always use it with an RCD, either in the fuse box, as a standalone unit in the socket or as part of the flex. May very well save your life in the event of a fault.

Tim
 
For an HLT you may get away with it, as you are not boiling in it only going to 75 ish.
I use a old (strong) FV as my HLT controlled via my temp control box & timer so that it switches on about 3/4hr before I need it and is held at 74deg until I need it. I use an old PC cable to feed it as well but it only has a 1.7Kw element in it :cheers:
 
Thanks for the reassurance mate but I'm going to go with gas and stainless steel. This is all for my first AG set up so I may as well go with time-tested methods over dodgy DIY when 240 volts are involved. Thanks everyone for the advice!
 
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