I logged out of google then clicked the link it popped the google log in box up so i logged in and got the screen again.
Pint365 beer engine
- Thread starter Honk
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I logged out of google then clicked the link it popped the google log in box up so i logged in and got the screen again.
btw if anyone is interested, these are the removable parts from the Pint365-cylinder:
The order is basically from top left to bottom right. I could not take apart the rest of the cylinder, specifically the bottom part, whilst avoiding too much brute force, so here we are.
I finally got rid of the odour by soaking the cylinder and all parts for about 12 hours in househokd soda/natron (didn't spare the budget on that stuff).
The order is basically from top left to bottom right. I could not take apart the rest of the cylinder, specifically the bottom part, whilst avoiding too much brute force, so here we are.
I finally got rid of the odour by soaking the cylinder and all parts for about 12 hours in househokd soda/natron (didn't spare the budget on that stuff).
The Angram CQ engine has no diaphragm as such, it works in a slightly different way.
If anyone is planning to hook up the pint 365 to a Corny keg under pressure. From my findings (Christmas delivery) drop pressure to approx 5psi and add a 3/8 JG straight connection to another 2M of 3/8 beer hose.
This will reduce vibration on the beer line and reduce excessive head
This will reduce vibration on the beer line and reduce excessive head
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Copied from the Pint365 FAQ:If anyone is planning to hook up the pint 365 to a Corny keg under pressure. From my findings (Christmas delivery) drop pressure to approx 5psi and add a 3/8 JG straight connection to another 2M of 3/8 beer hose.
This will reduce vibration on the beer line and reduce excessive head
| Why isn’t my pump is pulling properly? | Firstly check the following: a. Is your Pint365 the recommended distance from box to pump |
Added 2M onto the original line.
Don't try use a line reducer like you would on a party tap as the beer engine will try pull back into the demand valve
Make us a brew luv
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This thread is interesting to me. My dad is desperate to put a batch through his beer engine and I've been trying to figure it out.
On this valve...has anyone thought about using the bowtie spunding valve to do the same job, perhaps putting it in line before the keg?
Not sure it would work
On this valve...has anyone thought about using the bowtie spunding valve to do the same job, perhaps putting it in line before the keg?
Not sure it would work
RoomWithABrew
Landlord.
Do you mean put a spunding valve in the gas line feeding the keg?
You could use an inline regulator, which are white and made by kegland. But they are not that accurate at low pressures.
Corny keg with pressure around 5 psi ( depending of course on beer temp), demand valve between the corny and the engine. You want a beer line of about 1/2 inch internal that doesn't collapse and isn't silicone.
peebee
Out of Control
That was a good reminder to put my "Treatise" link back in my signature (vvv below vvv). It has a section on handpumps too. (It links to my Google drive because the document was too big (still is?) to post on this site). Hopefully the new link sidesteps the security changes Google made (it does use their own "fix").
peebee
Out of Control
5PSI is often the lowest a normal regulator will stick to (more often not that low!). But it's a bit high for many handpumps (they creak and groan) and the beer will be fizzy. I recommend variable LPG regulators as secondaries, the commonly available Cleese 50-150mbar (about 0.75-2.25PSI) is ideal and not encumbered with "POL" adapters (plain BSP threads). You may need a thicker lid "O" ring to make the lids on Corny kegs seal (silicon "O" rings being softer is a myth!).
Consider the demand valve as "essential" too.
I have just obtained a cask breather from Facebook market place. The cylinder went on my Pint365 (replaced immediately without fuss by Masons) so I'm hoping this will allow a little leeway from the corny.
Just on this subject, got one of the new Kegland digital secondaries hooked up to a corny on the Pint365.
5 PSI set, these new digital ones are brilliant at accuracy on lower PSI.
Pulling a great pint of AG
Did you get them off Naked Keg?
I did, brilliant service
As soon as they start stocking the inbuilt JG/Other pushfits (I've forgot what they're called) low profile posts, but the flow control versions; I'll be putting a fairly large order in with them. I've been keeping my eye on them for a while.
peebee
Out of Control
Watch those Kegland things. I'm sure the digital gauges are just fine, but the gauge doesn't do the controlling. Those inline regulators and spunding valves they attach to haven't proven to be too good at low pressure (<5PSI) and you'll want less than 2PSI for a handpump (unless treating it as entirely a piece of "bling" - some do unfortunately).
The "diaphragm" does the "controlling", and at gnat-fart pressures, the bigger the diaphragm, the better.
The "diaphragm" does the "controlling", and at gnat-fart pressures, the bigger the diaphragm, the better.
What I have found Peebee, adding an additional 2M of 3/8 beer line to the insulated line that comes with the Pint365 and setting the inline secondary to 5psi, I get little shudder on the pour and a consistent pull.
Forget the smaller sparklers at this PSI or it will be a pint of foam
RoomWithABrew
Landlord.
RLBS told me to use a pipe of minimum half inch internal, that will stop the shudder and if you get the pressure right you can pull easily and not get foam. Agreed it will sparkle if you have too much pressure.
