Pimp my Mash Tun

The Homebrew Forum

Help Support The Homebrew Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

TheRedDarren

Landlord.
Joined
May 14, 2015
Messages
1,192
Reaction score
447
I thought I'd write this up in case it's of any use to anyone.

What with mash temperatures being so vital to the balance of the final beer, I was trying to improve my mash tun's thermal efficiency.
It regularly drops 2/4 degrees over the course of a 90 minute mash which often means the final temperature is around the 62/65 mark.
In practice this means the wort is very fermantable and can have a higher abv and less body than planned.

Following the advice from many on here with a similar mash tun, I have made a triple pronged attack on heat loss!

Firstly, I filled the lid with perlite, there is a lot of heat loss through the cup holders as the lid is just filled with air. It took a wee while using a jug and funnel to get it in via the small bung on the underside but I got it pretty full.

Then I filled the external cavities with expanding foam and left it to cure before trimming it to size.
After trimming I used foil tape to cover the gaps.

Then it's just a case of wrapping the whole thing in insulation. I used three layers on all sides, all stuck down with the foil tape.

I tested the thermal efficiency before and after. Unfortunely the improvement is very minimal, but it is a small improvement.
The test was with just hot water, so hopefully a real mash will see another small improvement!

Temperatures and times before:
Start - hot water from the tap - 56.9*
30 mins later - 56.0*
An hour later - 55.4*

Temperatures and time after:
Start - hot water from the tap - 56.8*
30 mins later - 56.2*
An hour later - 55.6*

Total costs; ���£8.99 for the perlite, ���£9.99 & ���£4.99 for the bubble wrap and tape and ���£3.50 for the expanding foam.
Obviously I was hoping for a bigger improvement overall but a small gain is better than none!
I shall update further after a brew day.

image.jpg
 
Looks like a pretty (very) neat job. I think the improvement will be better with the grain in since it holds heat better than water alone (I think). I did my brewday today..a First Gold pale ale kind of smash but using magnum for bittering at 60min and first gold for flavour/aroma at 15,5 and 0min. Oops I'm off topic..anyway I kept an eye on the temperatures. Mash started off at 66.2 C. I had filled the cup holders with pipe insulation and measured the temperature on top of the lid and at the bottom of the cup holders below the pipe insulation. Top of lid got to 33C which is quite high, but the hot spots that I'd noticed last time in the cup holder got to over 40 C, so the insulating the cup holder is worthwhile. After the mash the temp in the grain bed in the middle was still 66.2 C, but the sides were 65.4 C..so not too bad, but the liquid on top of the grain bed was 62.4 C. So I think I'll follow you in filling the lid with perlite and see what happens next time.

P1030722.jpg


P1030724.jpg
 
Thanks mate.
So you don't lose a single degree?! Wow, I wish mine was that good.
I didn't get around to brewing today. I've had beer flu after staying up and sampling HB's and watching Benn v Eubank on YouTube!
 
The other thing I'll try from now on is minimising mash length, therefore minimising temp losses too.
I have iodine so I can test conversion. As soon as I get a negative test result I'll mash out and start sparging.
I'm convinced that the effective mash temp is the final one, ie; when I start at 68 and finish at 65, the fermentibility is high due to conversion at 65.
 
Size of the mash tun might influence things too (you know surface area per unit volume). Mine is a 33ltr tun and my normal brews have it filled with approx 27ltrs of grain/water ..and totally full for strong scotch ale recipes. tend to be aiming for abvs in the 5-8 range. I only do 60min mashes.
 
I'm struggling with heat loss.
Still testing with water at the moment.

The cool box cavity is filled with vermiculite.
The lid has two layers of foam underlay. (About 15 mm total)
Even wrapped in a tog10 quilt I'm losing 4 degrees over an hour.
Roughly 7ltrs of water at 60 degrees.

I understand grains will help maintain heat, but it would be nice if I could get heat losses lower before I start.
 
Just done a mash in my �£16 Range coolbox last weekend. Never dropped a single degree over 60 mins!

Mind you, I did warm it up first by chucking in a kettle of near boiling water for 10+ minutes and once the grain/strike water were at 67' I put the lid on, put a body warmer over it and then a big winter coat on top of that. Maintained 67' right to the end.

Zero mods to the coolbox.

coolbox.jpg
 
Could you do me a favour please.
no pre heat and about 1/4 full.
Would you measure heat loss with hot tap water over a 1 hour period without the quilt/Parker etc and let me know the results.
 
Could you do me a favour please.
no pre heat and about 1/4 full.
Would you measure heat loss with hot tap water over a 1 hour period without the quilt/Parker etc and let me know the results.

Done...

About 1/3 full, hot tap water, no pre-heat, no lagging, started at 55', room temp ~17'

I'll post an update in 58 mins 30 secs :grin:
 
I'm struggling with heat loss.
Still testing with water at the moment.

The cool box cavity is filled with vermiculite.
The lid has two layers of foam underlay. (About 15 mm total)
Even wrapped in a tog10 quilt I'm losing 4 degrees over an hour.
Roughly 7ltrs of water at 60 degrees.

I understand grains will help maintain heat, but it would be nice if I could get heat losses lower before I start.

You could try this - space blanket wrapped around the body (sides and bottom). Cheap foam camping mat, do the same. I had enough mat left to make a lid that fits over the cool box lid.
 
Thanks for the data.
It really helps and ties it with my results.

so I'm happy to move on with the spare system.
 
You could try this - space blanket wrapped around the body (sides and bottom). Cheap foam camping mat, do the same. I had enough mat left to make a lid that fits over the cool box lid.

A builder friend gave me the thickest chunk of celotex you've ever seen which I'm considering using for the underside of the lid.
Not sure of its toxicity properties though.
 
I filled my coolbox mash tun lid with vermiculite and it improved its heat keeping today (not that it was bad anyway). Temperature on the middle of the top of the lid where the insulation is thinnest due to a dome on the underside, was 29.5 Deg C vs 33 C last time (see earlier post in this thread for pic)..heat loss from the sides of the lid are less since insulation layer is thicker. . After the mash I still had the starting temp in the middle of the grain bed (like before), but the vermiculite helped my temp loss the top of the grain bed/liquid on top nearest the lid to go down from -4 C to -2.5C.

Resize of P1030744.jpg
 
Back
Top