jonewer
Landlord.
How do you use a PID? Plug it into the mains and then plug the boiler into the PID, set temp, done.
Or is there more too it? :wha:
Or is there more too it? :wha:
PIDs
- Thread starter jonewer
- Start date
Help Support The Homebrew Forum:
BigYin
Regular.
more :thumb:
see the How To link in my sig below
You need a compatible temperature sensor probe, a solid state relay of suitable size to handle the power drawn by the element, the PID, something to house it in, and some way to cool the relay.
Bit of a hassle, but worth it :
see the How To link in my sig below
You need a compatible temperature sensor probe, a solid state relay of suitable size to handle the power drawn by the element, the PID, something to house it in, and some way to cool the relay.
Bit of a hassle, but worth it :
TRXnMe
Landlord.
The PID will require a 240 volt supply, but it only uses this to switch the relay (SSR = Solid State Relay) that actually supplies the power to the element.
Basically your 240 volt supply goes into the enclosure and is split, one feed to the PID another feed to the kettle element.
The feed to the kettle element has one of the wires passing through the switched side of the SSR.
The PID then supplies the SSR with an activation current when the temperature is below the set point it has :)
It is really quite easy, especially if you follow BigYin's how to, do make sure you make all the connections off nice and tightly, loose connecctions with 240 volts AC going through them will get warm, this causes them to get looser, which means they get warmer the next time...
PS
Mine, as described above, only drives one element in my HLT, if you want to power two elements you'll need another plug as per BigYin's wiring diagram, so that you only draw current for one element from each socket. The wire used from a plug would probably not enjoy having 20 Amps through it for an hour or so, could get very nasty.
Basically your 240 volt supply goes into the enclosure and is split, one feed to the PID another feed to the kettle element.
The feed to the kettle element has one of the wires passing through the switched side of the SSR.
The PID then supplies the SSR with an activation current when the temperature is below the set point it has :)
It is really quite easy, especially if you follow BigYin's how to, do make sure you make all the connections off nice and tightly, loose connecctions with 240 volts AC going through them will get warm, this causes them to get looser, which means they get warmer the next time...
PS
Mine, as described above, only drives one element in my HLT, if you want to power two elements you'll need another plug as per BigYin's wiring diagram, so that you only draw current for one element from each socket. The wire used from a plug would probably not enjoy having 20 Amps through it for an hour or so, could get very nasty.
Cedaronics
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 8, 2011
- Messages
- 168
- Reaction score
- 0
I'd just like to say that I have a load of these I imported a couple of weeks ago, and did not sell on eBay, so am happy to let them go to forum members at practical cost price. I've paid for the item and the customs/VAT so there was very little to be made on them. If forum members are interested, please pm me.
P+P first class is £3, that's £2.70 for the posting and 30p for the padded envelope. I'd charge £22 for the PID.
pidpic by Tim Redberry, on Flickr
DSC06488 by Tim Redberry, on Flickr
P+P first class is £3, that's £2.70 for the posting and 30p for the padded envelope. I'd charge £22 for the PID.
pidpic by Tim Redberry, on Flickr
DSC06488 by Tim Redberry, on Flickr
tazuk
Landlord.
here are pid unit builds :thumb:
this build now has heatsinks like on pc power unit build
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=19526
viewtopic.php?f=30&t=24125
:thumb: this build now has heatsinks like on pc power unit build
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=19526
viewtopic.php?f=30&t=24125
Similar threads
