Neipa oxidisation

[prog99]

Still tastes and smells good but a bit annoying none the less as theres a whole keg that needs drunk fairly quickly! Just looks like something I might have excavated from the gutter.

 

[Sadfield]

Gutting. What sort of keg are you using? Racking to a purged corny keg should normally be the best option for NEIPAs. Just goes to show what a little oxygen can do, yet, apparently something that people unduly worry about.

 

[Pennine]

wow! the one time i kegged a neipa i used campden and it retained its color till it was gone. when i bottle condition i never have this issue though? i thought it was an old wives tale.

 

[Drunkula]

he one time i kegged a neipa i used campden and it retained its color till it was gone

What concentration did you use?

 

[Pennine]

What concentration did you use?

it was a small amount like half a tablet for a 19l keg. something like 0.3 to 0.5g. similar quantities to what i use for getting chlorine out of water.

 

[Sadfield]

wow! the one time i kegged a neipa i used campden and it retained its color till it was gone. when i bottle condition i never have this issue though? i thought it was an old wives tale.

You do see some brewers going way to far over to the Chloride side of water treatment. A campden sounds like a good fix.

 

[strange-steve]

Still tastes and smells good but a bit annoying none the less as theres a whole keg that needs drunk fairly quickly! Just looks like something I might have excavated from the gutter.
View attachment 25453

Someone sent me a NEIPA a while back (can't remember who now, edit: it was @tobiasbeecher) and it was possibly even darker and muddier looking than that, but it actually still smelled and tasted amazing.

 

[strange-steve]

You do see some brewers going way to far over to the Chloride side of water treatment.

It's interesting that Scott Janish recommended 1:1 ratio of sulphate to chloride for NEIPA with <200 ppm calcium chloride which (assuming dihydrate) is about 115 ppm of chloride, surprisingly low.

 

[Sadfield]

It's interesting that Scott Janish recommended 1:1 ratio of sulphate to chloride for NEIPA with <200 ppm calcium chloride which (assuming dihydrate) is about 115 ppm of chloride, surprisingly low.

Yep, although it's the sulphate that gets left out that's the issue, with yeast not spitting sulphite out the other end.

 

[prog99]

I'm a bit suspicious of the keg as its never held pressure well but then its previous beer was the same one, same recipe etc so who knows.

 

[strange-steve]

Yep, although it's the sulphate that gets left out that's the issue, with yeast not spitting sulphite out the other end.

I don't know much about yeast metabolism, do you mean that yeast metabolises sulphate into sulphite?

 

[Sadfield]

I don't know much about yeast metabolism, do you mean that yeast metabolises sulphate into sulphite?

Yes. Actually, I think it gets reduced down through sulphite to hydrogen Sulphide. It's in Scott's new book.

 

[strange-steve]

Yes. Actually, I think it gets reduced down through sulphite to hydrogen Sulphide. It's in Scott's new book.

I started reading that a while ago but got distracted, I'll have to pick it up again.

 

[samale]

I have tried brewing a NEIPA but have given up. First of all I don't treat my water and second I don't keg. So in short I am F##ked. For it work I think you need a closed transfer to the keg.

 

[dan125]

Yes. Actually, I think it gets reduced down through sulphite to hydrogen Sulphide. It's in Scott's new book.

Interesting. I've never considered the water profile making a difference to the oxidation and I've read the book (was quite heavy going though, must have missed that bit first time round )
I've tried the 1:1 ratio though and don't think it gives the same soft rounded mouhfeel as when I use an overall fairly soft profile and keep the suphates as low as possible.
I'm now wondering how much protection a little more sulphate may provide, and if there's a min ppm needed - will have to dust off the book.

 

[Brew_DD2]

I have tried brewing a NEIPA but have given up. First of all I don't treat my water and second I don't keg. So in short I am F##ked. For it work I think you need a closed transfer to the keg.

I stopped brewing them completely for a while. Was sick of wasting batch after batch of the stuff. Would smell and taste amazing for a couple of weeks, but then would turn brown/purple and take on a cloyongly sweet character that I didn't care for, and that dulled the hop character significantly.

Getting a Fermzilla was one of the best brewing purchases I've ever made. Nice bright hoppy beers every time.

 

[Sadfield]

For it work I think you need a closed transfer to the keg.

Agree, or you at least need to be prepared to fail.

I fermented mine under pressure in a keg and then transfered it in and out of another for dry hopping, which was challenging. They're not something I've considered brewing since I did one three years ago, I much prefer the crisp, bitterness of West Coast IPAs. The technical aspect of brewing them is fascinating though, and I do laugh when I read the 'just throwing loads of hops in' comments.

 

[Sadfield]

Interesting. I've never considered the water profile making a difference to the oxidation and I've read the book (was quite heavy going though, must have missed that bit first time round

There's a lot in there and most of it is hypothesis rather than x causes y. I read it a few weeks ago and most of it has left my head already.

 

[Pennine]

what kind of g/l are you all dry hopping with to see that kind of oxidation?

 

[prog99]

what kind of g/l are you all dry hopping with to see that kind of oxidation?

This was 200g of dry hops in 20l

Still annoyed, made it before and it showed minimal degradation from start to finish. I'm beginning to blame the keg, need to check it for leaks once this has been drunk.